Hello experienced sewers,
I’m experimenting with flat-pattern drafting and I need a little help! I should say, a lot of help!! Does anyone know the answers to the following questions? Thanks for any help you can provide.
Can you recommend publications that give clear and concise instructions for flat-pattern drafting, particularly styling the sloper? Can you provide a source to order such books, since they are not easily available?
Can you provide instructions in flat-pattern drafting to style a basic sloper for a hip length jacket with princess armhole seams?
When flat-pattern drafting a basic sloper to style a jacket with princess seams from the armhole:
- Is it a prerequisite to transfer the bust dart to the armhole, before styling a princess
style from the armhole?
- How do I match the armhole starting point on the front and back bodice, if there is an armhole dart? Would I use either dart leg or the center guideline?
- What are the exact cutting lines from the armhole dart for front and back bodice pieces to the hemline?
- What are my options for styling the hemline?
Can you provide instructions in flat-pattern drafting for a two-piece tailored sleeve?
When flat-pattern drafting a sleeve at the wrist/hemline opening, what do I need to consider when drafting for a coat versus a jacket versus a blouse? I have full upper arms, will a small wrist opening look funny?
In flat-pattern drafting, when do I add the design ease, is it before or after styling the sloper? Or, do I add the design ease to the basic sloper or to the styled sloper?
How do I add design ease to the side seam of a bodice front sloper with a bust dart? Will the pivot method work?
I used the flat-pattern method to draft a long sleeve. The sleeve front and back are not symmetrical, where is the grainline? Where do I mark the notch on the sleeve cap to match the shoulder seam; is it still ¼” from the center toward the sleeve front? Does this ¼” toward the center apply to a custom drafted sleeve, based on the measured front and back armhole?
Does it matter which way I fold the dart when I want to reshape the end? What is the correct way to fold the dart?
Since a basic sloper does contain a measure of ease, is there a standard for increments of measure for additional ease at the bust, waist, and hip for semi-fitted garments? I.e. a fitted straight skirt has @ 3″ of ease at the hip, how much of this is already used up in the sloper?