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Fusible vs non-fusible interfacing

user-61024 | Posted in General Discussion on

When I’ve tried fusible interfacing, I’ve been very unhappy with the results. So I look, mostly in vain, for lightweight Pellon-type non-fusible to satisfy my old-fashioned ways. It’s getting harder and harder to find. Was recently shopping in Idaho and a fabric store clerk suggested I buy light fusible, but wet it first, then let it dry, to shrink it some, so I wouldn’t be plagued with the wrinkles I’d gotten with fusible in the past. Is that really the best trick? Would it still fuse well? Are there other secrets to making fusible interfacing work? Or alternative fabrics to use for the interfacing, that are non-fusible? Look forward to the expertise of you all.

Replies

  1. User avater
    ThreadKoe | | #1

    I hear you friend! I guess I just don't trust them either, but some of the other people have been telling me that they are better than they used to be as far as the adhesives are. I think the problem for me is that I was not pre-shrinking them. This caused a lot of bubbling. I thought it was the interfacing. It was, but it was because of me. Rather silly of me not to think of preshrinking it actually. So I am going to give it another try. Cathy

    1. woodruff | | #3

      I think they are better than they used to be, though I only use Pellon products for crafts these days. There are many, many different kinds of new iron-ons available now, and at Louise Cutting's (Cutting Lines) website, for exzmple, you can get a packet of nice samples of current, very high-tech iron-ons.My belief is that shrinkage remains a danger with each and every one of them, though, and when I buy one (rarely), I always soak it in hot water for twenty minutes, roll it out in a towel to remove the moisture, and then hang it over the shower rod to dry before I store it. I want as few surprises as possible when sewing.That said, I almost never, ever use fusibles, the rare exception being when I am using a fine, high-tech fabrics like PowerDry and absolutely must have a synthetic interfacing.I make most of my husband's shirts of good cotton, and my interfacing of choice is lightweight poly/cotton batiste or shirting. The poly in the blend means that the interfacing is reluctant to wrinkle, even right out of the dryer, and shirt portions interfaced with it always look pretty fresh. For me, installing these sew-ins is simple and really fast: I just cut the pieces to size and use one of the Aileene's fabric glues to put teeny dots of glue along the edges to glue-baste them in place before sewing.

      1. User avater
        ThreadKoe | | #4

        I was really, really fortunate when I worked in the fabric shop. I used to buy the different weights of sew in interfacings, the good quality ones, by the wide widths. Not the half widths they sell in most places now. I purchased as much as I could afford at the time, usually 5m lengths at a time. Unfortunatly, my stash is pretty much gone. So I am shocked to pay now what I do for half of what I used to get for that price! I have often used broadcloth for interfacings or interlinings or even linings. Love the stuff. Batiste is hard to get here, and usually expensive. So sometimes, with plain fabrics, I will double up the fabric if it is suitable. Whatever works for the proper hand and support for what I am making. Cathy

        1. Sunny_Sunshine | | #13

          I, too, use mostly broadcloth. A little trick I got in some book is to put interfacing and facing right sides together and stitch the outer edge (not the seam allowance).  Then flip and press and the inside edge of your facing is nicely finished rather than just turned under. I hope this makes sense.

          1. Teaf5 | | #14

            So, you are facing the facing? Very clever, and probably a whole lot nicer than the other options for finishing facings!

          2. rekha | | #15

            I am thick and old so could you please describe it as side A, side B ....

          3. User avater
            ThreadKoe | | #16

            Rekha, this neat trick works with iron on interfacings as well. Before you apply your interfacings, do not trim off the edges of the interfacing that you would normally clean finish. Instead, put the interfacing and the facing right sides together and sew this edge together like you would a lining. Grade and clip. Turn and press the interfacing to the wrong side of the facing. If it is iron on, do so now. You can top stitch or edge stitch this edge as well if you are using sew in interfacing. This makes a nice clean enclosed edge on facings, and is a lot easier than trying to turn and finish the edge. Cathy

    2. user-61024 | | #21

      Thanks SO much to everyone who has responded to my question about fusibles. I, too, thought that soaking the stuff sounded strange, but your experiences tell me otherwise.

      So I shall give it a try!

      Thanks one and all again. How amazing it is to hear from so many, from all around the world!

       

  2. DONNAKAYE | | #2

    Oh, my goodness, yes, yes, and yes!  There are a number of really good fusibles out there.  Pellon products are generally something I'll use only if absolutely necessary, with a few notable exceptions.  Yes, you should always preshrink fusibles.  Fold the fabric with the fusible side inside then soak it for a couple of hours or overnight in a basin of warm water.  Drain, roll in a towel to absorb most of the moisture, then hang to dry.  If you're not preshrinking, you are definitely going to get bubbles.  And yes, they will most certainly still fuse after preshrinking.  If you'll give me some examples of your upcoming projects, I can certainly recommend some good fusibles to try.  There is also a technique I use when fusing that makes the process simple.

    1. rekha | | #5

      Don't the glue granules wash off with this procedure?

      1. DONNAKAYE | | #6

        No.  I know it sounds counterintuitive, but it doesn't.

        1. rekha | | #7

          Then I shall boldly go forth and soak this french tricot interfacing I bought on ebay.

          All my success will be attributed to me and all  my failures to you (hee hee)

          1. DONNAKAYE | | #8

            That's cool.  I have broad shoulders and big panties.

        2. User avater
          ThreadKoe | | #9

          Ok, that's what I figured, If you use heat to set the glue, then how do you preshrink iron on interfacing? it is counter intuitive isn't it. I'll trust you on this one girl and give it a whirl. Cathy

          1. DONNAKAYE | | #10

            Just make sure and use lukewarm water -- you know, the old baby formula trick.  You can do it!  I know you can!  Have courage!  Make sure and let me know how everything turns out.

            I do have a neat little thing (at least I think so) when fusing my interfacing.  After I've cut and I'm ready to fuse, I place the fabric and interfacing on the cutting unit.  I take the iron, set on a low heat setting, and lightly fuse the center of the garment piece -- front, back, sleeve, whatever -- just enough to make it stick a little, until just shy of the seamlines.  Then I trim off the excess interfacing in the seam allowances to reduce the bulk.  Then I continue on with permanently fusing it.

          2. User avater
            ThreadKoe | | #11

            Steam or no steam?

          3. DONNAKAYE | | #12

            I normally do not use steam in this step because the iron can sometimes spit water on the lower temperature settings.  Newer irons (at least the more expensive ones) advertise that this is no longer an issue.

        3. woodruff | | #18

          Correct. The glue is not bothered by mere soaking, though you could perhaps upset things by scrubbing or agitating the interfacing while soaking.Another thing: When reading up on fusibles, you will run into frequent references to the importance of a moisture/pressure combo when applying these interfacings. Mashing them while they stew under a dampened press cloth is important to some. If instructions come with your interfacing, I'd suggest reading them. If you know the brand name, it's even a good idea to hit the website and look for instructions there.What else? There are low-temp fusibles now. I have used them in small areas on some fabrics that hate high temperatures, and they work well. I would still preshrink them in warm water, though: You would find it very instructive to lay a piece of "pre-shrunk" interfacing on your fabric and then hold the steam iron just above it--and see it shrink still more before your very eyes! It's a visible demonstration of the source of puckering.

          1. DONNAKAYE | | #19

            Woodruff,

            "Another thing: When reading up on fusibles, you will run into frequent references to the importance of a moisture/pressure combo when applying these interfacings. Mashing them while they stew under a dampened press cloth is important to some. If instructions come with your interfacing, I'd suggest reading them. If you know the brand name, it's even a good idea to hit the website and look for instructions there.

            What else? There are low-temp fusibles now. I have used them in small areas on some fabrics that hate high temperatures, and they work well. I would still preshrink them in warm water, though: You would find it very instructive to lay a piece of "pre-shrunk" interfacing on your fabric and then hold the steam iron just above it--and see it shrink still more before your very eyes! It's a visible demonstration of the source of puckering.

             

            Although I wasn't the member requesting the information, I thank you just the same.  You have reminded me of a good point that may have confused some readers in my post about fusing the interfacing, and that is that I am only fusing the interfacing in the first part of my post so that I can trim out the seam allowances before the final fusing.  You are correct that most fusibles require a good deal of heat and moisture.  (Rekha, I'm sorry if my message was a bit confusing on this point.  Woodruff is absolutely correct.)  I meant only to say that I used that low temperature in the initial part of the fusing process.  Once the seams are trimmed out, I turn my iron temperature back up and kick up the steam (IF THE MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE FUSIBLE ADVISE ME TO DO SO, THAT IS) and proceed to "final fuse" the interfacing.

            The only reason I take that first step is so that my interfacing won't shift while I'm trimming out the seam allowances.  Once I am satisfied with the trimming, I proceed on to the manufacturer's recommendations.

            I ALWAYS preshrink interfacings and underlinings (and fashion fabrics, for that matter) with the appropriate method.  I am familiar enough with fabric content, manufacturers' recommendations, and care instructions at this point in my life that I don't have to look most things up, but of course I always check out the recommendations of the manufacturer whenever I'm trying out something that I haven't used before.

            Thanks for the tips....d.

          2. User avater
            ThreadKoe | | #20

            Thanks to you and DonnaKaye for the clarifications Woodruff. Thinking a good point of proceedure here is to also sample my interfacings before applying them just to be safe. Cathy

  3. NewHampshireRobin | | #17

    If you plan to keep using it, why not buy it in bulk? here are are a few on line sources:
    http://www.fabric.com/ (I notice they have "sew in" available by the yard at the moment)
    http://stores.ebay.com/The-Fabric-Collection_DISCOUNTED-LOT-CLOSEOUTS_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ18154612QQftidZ2QQtZkm

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