Replies

1. 
   Evita_ | Mar 21, 2000 06:31pm | #1

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   The best candidates for bias are simple garment with few seams. Unfortunately, your princess dress is not and the results will probably disappoint you. If you decide to give it a try anyway, remember that bias stretches a lot and will make your garment smaller across unless you give it really large seam allowances and refine the fit after sewing and resting the garment (don't clip curves). Zippers are also a pain to insert in bias. For more info, see the on-line article in the Fabric section of Threads.

1. 
   lin_hendrix | Mar 22, 2000 11:07pm | #2

   *Hi Tracey, Evita's right you'll not be too happy with a bias princess dress. You may wish to try just putting the center of the princess bodice on the bias. Or depending on the style of the dress you might consider creating a new pattern from your original and adding style lines with those sections on the bias. An example would be to add a cowly neckline and put that piece on the bias. Whatever you decide, do try to keep from sewing bias edge to bias edge. It's guaranteed to stretch out and act wierd.--lin

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   Tracey_Ceelen | Mar 23, 2000 01:26am | #3

   *EvitaThank you for your input. I did read the Bias 101 from Threads, it did help with how to change the grainline. I did not think that it would be as easy as drawing a new line and adding extra seam allowance. I have been designing and creating garments for many years and have never ventured into the world of bias cut garments. I have only used bias on trims and facings. Thank you again for your response.

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   Tracey_Ceelen | Mar 23, 2000 01:38am | #4

   *Lin,Thank you for your input I was just thinking last night about either doing only the front piece on the bias or underlining the pieces with fabric cut on the grain line. What I need is for the front piece to go across a small busted person and lay very smoothly. So far I am not happy with the way the fabric fits when cut on the lengthwise grain. It does not follow her shape very well. So I am going to try just the front bodice piece on the bias and leave the rest on the lengthwise grain line. Is there any advice when attaching the pieces together? I will add extra seam allowance for working space.Thank you again for the help.---Tracy

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   lin_hendrix | Mar 23, 2000 05:37pm | #5

   *Hi Tracey, Here's what I do to get a bias edge sewed nicely:1) Add several notches (depending on the length of the seam) along the two edges to be sewn together... measure off about 2"-4" segments along each pattern piece and add the notch. This will help aligning to two sections whilst sewing. After you've sewn the seam measure it to make sure it didn't get stretched out.2) Consider stay stitching the entire bias edge before sewing.3) Baste the piece in and assemble as much of the rest of the garment as is practical. Put it on your dressmaker form and let the whole thing "rest" for about a day. This will give you a better notion of how the dress will hang. Do the same for the hemline that has a bias edge.hope this helps,--lin

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   Bill_Stewart | Mar 26, 2000 08:45am | #6

   *Tracey, don't try to underline a bias section with a straight grain piece - gravity will cause the bias to sag and the area will become cowl-like. Stays with bias are only used in an area where you want to specifically control the flow of a cowl - the way the folds form and stay. The only time you can successfuly stay a bias section is in shirring as in the dresses of Parisian couture or formal bodices. Take a large scrap of each and play with them on a dress form and you'll see what I mean.

3. 
   Evita_ | Mar 29, 2000 06:17pm | #7

   *Tracey, you mentioned that you want to fit a small-busted person. Maybe the problem lies with your pattern, since they are sized for a B-cup bust, which may be too big for her: too much length, too much width equals bagginess. Try altering a copy of your pattern fronts. A book on alterations will help you with the procedure (or write back and we'll give you guidelines). Princess lines give the most precise fit so you'll be well rewarded for your efforts.Evita