Can anyone tell me, or point me to an online article that will tell me how to adjust a jeans pattern to make the back waistband elasticated? I assume I need to increase the waistband length (but don’t know by how much) and then compensate the yoke width to match. i don’t want the size much bigger. My mother wants comfort, but not much increase in size. thanks!
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A comfortable amount of ease can be gained by continuing the back/yoke side seams straight up from the hip point, rather than curving them in toward the waistline as the front side seams do. You can look at the back pattern piece of a gathered pant to get an idea of the shape.
Cut the waistline to allow for this extra width, and after you have attached it and inserted the elastic inside it, it will slightly gather what would have been taken up by back darts and/or the curved side seam.
It's a good idea to cut this re-shaped back waistline with an extra-long seam allowance so that you can fit the back crotch length before sewing. For my flat derriere, I need the back waistline to dip almost an inch in the center back, while my daughter's lovely, athletic bottom needs a waistline rise of almost an inch in the center back. Especially on gathered waistlines, you don't want too little or too much fabric in that spot!
Thank you very much, thats a great help. My mum has the flat behind fitting challenge too, so I took in a little in the back of each leg which has helped. I'll post how it goes!
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