Help! Making a satin Pocket Square
I am a novice at sewing and have been asked to make a satin pocket square. I haven’t even purchased the fabric yet but I’m wondering what I should do with the edges. Any advice is appreciated. I’m interested in the easiest yet most professional looking ideas possible. I found a site explaining how to fold the pocket square so I think I’ll be able to do that part.
Thanks!
Replies
If you have a machine, you can easily narrow hem a pocket square with a hem foot and then clean up the corners with handstitching, but practice on cotton or muslin first! Satin tends to ravel quickly, so you'll want to move it from the cutting surface to your machine with as little handling as possible.
Another option is to strait stitch about1/4" from the raw edge all around, then turn and press the hem and catch-stitch it by hand. A pocket square is small, and that might be faster than learning to use the hem foot.
Almost all sewing books and websites have information on "narrow hemming," which is what you'll need for a polished look.
Thanks for your suggestions. I'll practice the hem and see what happens.
I was thinking of doing a satin stitch all the way around with rayon thread and then just trimming it but I'm not sure if I can keep the line straight enough for it to look good--my seams aren't always perfect, that's for sure. And I don't know if that's appropriate anyhow.
Well thank you, I appreciate your help.
You don't need to hem anything. Just take a small piece of satin and fold the raw edges together towards the bottom. When you get it looking the way you want the top to look sew the whole thing to a scrap of thin card board. This will hold the shape and slide into the pocket. Most pocket squares are not actually squares and not actual handkerchiefs; they are usually 2/3 cardboard.
Audrey Childress taught the following "self-lined pocket facing":
Turn the pocket hem down and press into place. Cut a piece of organza or other similar fabric to the size of the cut pocket, minus the hem allowance at the top, plus about 1/2". Stitch the right side of the organza to the right side of the cut edge of the pocket below the hemline (i.e., where the back of the hand would touch as you reach into the pocket) with a 1/2" seam allowance. Trim and understitch as desired, and turn the organza wrong side to the pocket. Place the pocket face down on the cutting table, organza side up. Trim a scant 1/8" (or more, depending on weight of fabrics and desired effect) from the organza. (This will make the top fabric turn properly to the underside of the pocket.) Turn right sides together at hemline fold of pocket. Stitch 1/2" or appropriate seam allowance for desired pocket size, organza up and pocket down, from hemline fold, all the way around to other hemline fold (for rounded lower corners), or two sides then bottom (for squared lower corners), gently easing in with the feed dogs the slightly larger top pocket piece to the slightly smaller organza pocket facing, leaving a small opening in the side seam of the pocket to turn the pocket through to the right side. Press the seams flat to "marry" the stitches. Trim and grade seams, making fashion fabric seam slightly larger to "pad" the smaller facing seam, for a totally professional finish. Underpress, turn to right side, then top press with pressing cloth to protect satin finish. Now apply the finished pocket to the right side of the garment and topstitch or invisibly hand stitch in place.
If there are any steps I've left out or not made clear, please don't hesitate to contact me....
Donna Childress Brandt
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