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Help me fit this please!

educo | Posted in Fitting on

I’m making a dress I designed and I don’t have a sewing buddy to do fittings for me, so I have to resort to pictures and the lovely experts here. I know there is a few tweaks here and there, and I was wondering what would be your suggestions. I am wearing the bra I intend to wear when I finish this dress. I have attached pics to look at. I only made a bodice test sample because my skirt fits fine. It’s just the seam situation through the bodice I’m really concerned with. Also, I have noticed that my neckline doesn’t fall flat on my chest, so I was wondering how to correct that? Do I pinch out 1/4″?

I really appreciate all of your input, I’m dying to correct this for the spring season!


  1. Josefly | | #1

    I know you'll get some good advice here. I'm going to check out a book I have on fitting - it seems to me that, particularly on the right side, there's a fold from the armscye pointing toward your bust. That may need that a dart needs to be folded out in the armscye pattern, but I'm not sure if the fullness needs to be rotated into another dart or not. If in the meantime, someone more expert than I doesn't address the issue for you, I'll be back to let you know what I've found.The gaping neckline, not very obvious in the photos, by the way, may be related to the other problem.

    Edited 5/1/2008 11:22 am ET by Josefly

  2. Teaf5 | | #2

    The shoulders and back seem to fit fine, so part of the reason the neckline doesn't lie flat is that the seaming at the zipper that is allowing it to gape open.  You can easily pick out the top 1" or so of the zipper, press and fold the fabric, and restitch it. 

     Also, a lot of the zipper tape is showing--a style option--but if the pattern called for a centered zipper, they were expecting you to baste the seam closed before inserting the zipper; thus, the front is probably nearly an inch wider than it should be for the size.  That extra width may account for some of the problem with the horizontal bust seam; that area looks too big (either for excess width or possibly that you are smaller than the standard graded B cup).

    Since this is a very closely fitted style, try it on inside out and pin the seams to your satisfaction.  Take it off, chalk the seamlines, and baste them to check while trying it on again right-side out.

    A very flattering neckline, and you've done a great job on the facing!

    1. educo | | #3

      That makes sense, I'm intending the zipper be an exposed one, so I should measure the difference and take it off CF. You don't think the shoulder line near the neckline is pitching a little forward? i was going to throw that seam back about 1/4" so when you look at the dress full frontal, you don't see the shoulder line dipping towards the front. My seam allowance is 5/8" for the CF and I think the zipper aplication takes up 1/2" so there is extra at the neckline.I will do the reverse method and report back. I feel so close to getting this right, I'm so anxious, lol!!Thanks for the compliments!Thanks to everyone who has helped me so far.

      Edited 5/1/2008 10:01 pm ET by educo

      1. Teaf5 | | #4

        I can't tell about the shoulder seam from the photo, but I wouldn't mess with it.  What you have now is perfectly contoured to your body, so unless you'll be tested on design principles, there's no reason to change it.  The ultimate test of fit is how it feels; if it's comfortable, it's right for you!

        1. educo | | #5

          Okay, no problem!

    2. jjgg | | #6

      >>>>Since this is a very closely fitted style, try it on inside out and pin the seams to your satisfaction. Take it off, chalk the seamlines, and baste them to check while trying it on again right-side out.<<<<Trying it on inside out is not a good option, most people are asymmetrical especially in the bust,and most have one high or low shoulder and if she is trying to get a close fit, when it's on inside out, the right side is on the left etc.It's easy enough to pin fit from the right side and transfer the chalk marks to the wrong side.

      1. Velvetangel | | #7

        Thank you - you just gave me an "Ah Ha!" moment.  Sometimes processes get stuck in my head and it never occurs to me to look at all the possibilities.  I have often turned garments with princess seams inside out to try on when I need to get a smooth seam line.  Now I know why it is not usually a successful method.  I thought that it might have had something to do with the seam allowances but really couldn't figure out exactly why.

        From now on - right side out all the time!


  3. gowngirl | | #8

    I didn't really read everyone's responses too closely, but it seems they addressed your princess seam issues to good satisfaction. If you began your design with a sloper, then yes, whenever you lower the neckline you will need to "pinch out" (the official term is reduction ease) about 1/2" of ease (or 1/4" on the half) from the neckline, pointing to the bust point in order for your garment to lay flat to your chest. It needs to be done before cutting your fabric, as I've never found a suitable after-the-cut fitting alternative. Even taking it up at the shoulder will not produce the result you want. Since you have a seam in front, you have the luxury of tweeking the CF without much notice. A long time ago I forgot about the neckline reduction ease with a paying customer and I will never forget to make the change forever more hereafter!

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