Help w/ gown: volume, support, hem…
I made a gown out of medium-weight satin using McCall’s 4776 (see attached image) w/ a lace-up back & no straps. I didn’t line it b/c it would be displayed on a dressform, & it just wasn’t practical for the amount of time I had. When it was on the dressform, the skirt’s lack of volume wasn’t obvious b/c I weighted the hem, which just reached the floor, & this allowed me to spread the hem outwards. But now the gown is going to be worn in a runway show, so I need to make some changes.
I’ll line the gown, & I think I’ll give the skirt volume by attaching gathered crinoline to the lining at mid-thigh. It seems like I should put extra crinoline in the back, b/c of the train. Does anyone think this is a bad idea, or have suggestions?
Another issue is the gown’s weight. There are many appliques on the train, & all together they’re kind of heavy. Since I want to make absolutely sure the gown stays put while it’s being modeled, I need to find a way to support some of that weight. I think boning inside the lining would offer enough support. Am I wrong? Is there a better way to support the gown w/o adding straps?
If I do use boning, where should it end? I would put it at each vertical seam, & at the edges where the back laces up (so, 8 places total). Should it end at the waist, or lower? I want a smooth transition. Also, I’ve read that boning should not go over the breasts, but I’ve also read that it should. Which is more appropriate for my situation? If it helps, the model’s about an A cup.
The gown’s length is a potential issue. Even in heels, the model’s shorter than the dressform the gown was displayed on. I don’t really mind hemming it, but I’m not sure how to handle the excess fabric at the bottom. Instead of cutting it off, I’d like to keep that extra length, so the gown could still be worn by someone taller in the future. Is there a way to finish the hem decently while keeping at least some of the extra length (it’s about 2.5″ to 3″) inside the hem?
Thank you so much for reading all of this, & any help would be greatly appreciated!