help with boning
I’m about to sew in the boning into the bodice of my daughter’s formal dress. I have not boned anything before. The boning is covered, and has a lot of curve. Is it usual to A get rid of the curve [how?] B face the inside of the curve toward the wearer’s body eg….. wearer) C face the outside of the curve awa from the wearer’s body eg……wearer( D another option which I haven’t considered? My instinct is to use option B but I haven’t been able to find any hints to help me.
I actually put the outside of the curve away from the body. My reasoning is that I don't want the top or bottom to poke out the outer fabric. But ususally garments with boning are a pretty tight fit and it probably woulldn't be a problem either way.
Whenever I've made a garment with boning, the curve is away from me (like example B) as I sew it on. I'm not sure if there is a specific rule about this.....I was taught to do it this way so many years ago that I've forgotten why......
If you want to get rid of the curve of the boning all you have to do is iron it with a hot iron and a press cloth. I would only do this if the curve was really bothersome like the end piece of the boning in by the yard boning( in other words the really tight inside of the roll).
Otherwise the only reason to do it any other way is based on the area that you are putting it in. Such as if you are putting it in the side of the bodice under the arms you would probably want it curving away from the body. If you are putting it in the bust area you may want it to curve towards the body as it will help hold the fabric against the bust better. Hope this helps.
I realize you have your boning already so this is probably too late for this garment but... next time consider spiral metal boning. I feel it is much better than the packaged plastic boning and for sure is more comfortable. It comes in 1/2" increments from 7.5" to 17". Cost is about 50 to 75 cents/bone. You do need to have your foundation piece completed (minus bones) to determine the correct lengths. If necessary they can be cut and the protective end tips replaced. Advantages beyond comfort include better casing material (whatever your choose - twill, petersham, channel tape, etc) than the packaged item and the spiral bones can make a lateral curve (think side sections of bodices) while still providing vertical support. Available at shops selling corset supplies.
And for the rebel souls that do not want to be confined to any increments of measure there is the sprial boning by the yard or meter. I got a roll from http://www.farthingales.on.ca/ and a gross of tips to go with it.
Greenberg and Hammer also sells corset supplies and the spiral boning. There was an article, actually 2 that I can think of that went into making a corset top and the inside of fitted dress, the latter was about a dress that Hilary Clinton wore to the first inauguration so we are talking 11 or twelve years ago! But there was one about a year or so ago with all the info and some sources I think.
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