Hi, all. I’m hoping that someone may have some experience in fitting pants on a large size woman. I drafted a basic sloper pattern for my client using the method in Winifred Aldrich’s Metric Pattern Cutting. She is a very large woman….waist 117 (46 1/8″), hip 158 (62 1/4″), rise 34 (13 3/8″), crotch length 104 (41″). The first muslin needed serious alterations, including lowering the crotch by 2 cm (3/4″) and extending the crotch point 2 cm on the back piece. However, then the inseams don’t match up, the front being 1.5 cm (5/8″) shorter! I sewed it this way, realizing that to make a smooth crotch curve I was going to have to lower the crotch seam significantly. (Her front waist had to be lowered drastically making it difficult to find places to add the extra to accommodate her crotch length. Fortunately, the back waistline was raised, but I still haven’t reached her crotch length measurement on the pattern because I simply don’t know where to put it and still have a workable pattern. I remeasured her at the first fitting and she wants the crotch length to have more ease, so it ends up at 110 cm or 43 3/8″.)
The second muslin fit much better, but I noticed that there were some diagonal wrinkles over her bottom just above the back crotch area. (Smiles?) This would indicate to me that she needs more room, both length and width. So how do I go about this? If I add a wedge to the back inseam by extending the crotch point further, how do I prevent any more lowering of the crotch seam? Sewing the crotch seam deeper would add to the problem, wouldn’t it?
HELP! Otherwise I’ve managed to get these looking quite good…..