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Hemming an Inward Corner

SeoulSearch | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Hi everybody,

Could you please give me some hints for hemming an inward corner? I’m working on a bias-cut slip dress that calls for a turned up hem on the top edge. The neckline is V-shaped, and I need to know how to get a nice, crisp inward corner. I’ve always used facings before so this is new to me. I’ve tried a few samples and it’s just not working! Please help.

Thanks. A flustered, but grateful sewer in MI.


  1. BYDEZINE | | #1

    I would use a facing even if the pattern doesn't call for one, the corner will look so much nicer.  and by all means stabilize the edge before you proceed because you are on the bias.

    1. SeoulSearch | | #2

      Ok, I hope this won't sound stupid, but how should I stabilize the edge? And what should I use? Does stabilizing mean to sew something like seam binding on the edge so it doesn't stretch out of shape?

      Thank you!


      1. BYDEZINE | | #3

        on something more bulky than a slip, you could use thin twill tape. for a slip you need something that won't add bulk:

        if you have a serger that does a chain stitch, run a line of that in the seam allowance. if you don't have a serger or it doesn't do a chain stitich, run two lines of stitches inside the seam allowance, making sure not to stretch as you sew.

        maybe even some lightweight dissolvable stabilizer under the stitches would help.

        comparing the piece to the pattern after you have stabilized will let you know if you stretched it and you can do fix it before you go any further. hope this helps

  2. crwritt | | #4

    Option One:

    Staystitch the seam allowance on the v-neck while applying twill tape measured exactly to your pattern neck edge. Pin this first, fuss with it, baste it, try it on, make sure the neckline is just right.(you can also use a strip of selvage-cut fabric from your dress fabric,instead of twill tape.I assume it is woven) Carefully clip the fabric into the corner of the V. Open out the V you have clipped and add in a little square of fabric . This should give you fabric enough to turn the hem. Now you can press, turn , baste, and carefully hand stitch the neckline hem.

    Option Two:

    Face the neckline with bias strip cut from the same fabric. This will allow you to add some twill tape to the seam and stabilize the shape of the V neck.

    Option Three:

    Fully line your slip dress, again using twill tape and staystitching to stabilize the neck edge. The extra layer will  give you more privacy and allow your dress to hang very nicely.

    I am surprised the pattern does not have instructions for these steps. If you are  sewing without a pattern, good for you! V necks are my favorite neckline to wear,but can be fussy to get right. I can always tell if I have rushed through one.

    Good luck Colleen

    Edited 8/3/2002 10:31:46 AM ET by CRWRITT

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