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Hemming Dilema

Carolyn_D._Eichner | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I have a pair of cotton Jerey pants to hem.
I dont have a serger, but have a Bernina with all kinds of feet and stitch.
What is the right combination of stitch, foot, tension, and thread to get a hem that dosen’t pucker?


  1. sanderson | | #1

    Carolyn...about hemming the cotton jersy. Do you have some scraps to play with? If you do, try your machine's blind hem stitch on a piece and see after pressing if that's the finish you want. Other options might be the double needle treatment with a wooly polyester wound onto the bobbin. You could also add a piece of seam binding to the bottom edge and hand sew or blind hem that to the leg body.

    1. karen_morris_ | | #2

      *Another option is Marcy Tilton's stabilized hem with twin-needle topstitching. You cut a narrow strip of fusible interfacing, stitch it to the inside of the hem edge, then turn it up and fuse it in place. This keeps the hem from puckering while you topstitch it with a twin needle. It looks like a smooth RTW hem.

      1. sanderson | | #3

        *Oh, that Marcy is so cleaver. Is that tip from a Threads article or from one of her books?

        1. karen_morris_ | | #4

          *She mentions it in two of her Threads articles--the gored skirt in No. 60, p. 37, and her T-shirt article (No. 65, p. 66). Marcy suggests a specific type of interfacing--soft, all-bias knit fusible interfacing (like SofKnit from HTC) cut in 1/2 in. wide crossgrain strips. Stitch a strip to the WS of the hem, adhesive side up, sewing 1/4 in. from the edge. Then "fold the hem, fuse it in place, and topstitch from the right side" with a twin needle.

          1. Carolyn_D._Eichner | | #5

            *Many thanks to the responders. I will try those suggestionsCE

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