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hemming help please

happy2sew | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I am making a long, (shoe length) flared 7-gored bridesmaid skirt of polyester crepe-backed satin (satin side is the right side).  What is the best method for hemming?  The skirt seems to be heavy, and if I do the method of using  a gathering thread to draw up the fullness, then even the hem depth to an even 1.25″ hem, and then trim and hand stitch the hem, I’m concerned that the weight of the fabric will cause the stitches to show (even if I stitch loosely).  I think adding a bias strip of interfacing at the hem may create too much weight, not giving the grace to the skirt it requires. I suppose the other alternative is a machine stitched hem, probably 1/4″ deep.  Has anyone worked on this fabric?  Anyone have a suggestion?  I am going to make some sample hems right now to test it. 

Replies

  1. Teaf5 | | #1

    Looking at ready-made formal gowns recently, I noticed that most have the machine stitched narrow hem or even a serged cut end rather than a deep hem. Especially on a long gown, a deep hem is likely to be too heavy and will catch high heels unless tightly stitched, which will probably make the hem look bulky and homemade.

  2. mygaley | | #2

    Please consider using horsehair braid to finish your hem; the instructions are on the package or in any general sewing book.  Also, a lot of couture garments never have a firmly pressed hem.  Galey

    1. happy2sew | | #3

      Thank you for your responses.  The horsehair braid is the way I intend to finish the bridal gown hem, but that treatment would make the bridesmaid dress "stand out" too far.  I think the narrow machine stitched hem looks like the way to go.  I don't know what I was thinking of when I mentioned the bias strip for the interfacing. I was probably thinking of a dress with an interlining.

  3. mem | | #4

    I would do a fine baby hem. Fold over a scant 1/4 inch stitch really close to the fold then trim away the excess  close to the stitching. Then fold over again and stitch close to the edge againusing the first stitching line as your guide . You will need to reduce bulk at the seam lines by cutting the seam allowance on the cross from the edge down to the actual seam line you will have arrow shapes on the end of your seams   then press them open . They shouldnt fray because they will be on the cross but you could just over whip them to make sure.

    1. happy2sew | | #5

      thank you for your help.  this is the hem that works best.

      1. mygaley | | #6

        Dear Happy, I saw that you found your solution to your current hem project, but I recently read a tip that was new to me that said if your hand hemmed stitches were vertical instead of horizontal, they would show less, and I have found this to be true.  Happy hemming, Galey

        1. happy2sew | | #9

          Wow! That is an interesting tip.  I already hemmed the skirt and the lining, but will have to try the vertical stitches on the next project.  Thank you.

  4. Angels | | #7

    I have heard that if one is uncertain if the hemming stitches will show, then when hemming instead of catching the thread back to the fashion fabric, stitch it to the lining or the interlining, that way it is impossible for it to show on the outside.  I have also heard/seen with some high end gowns there is never a firm press to the hem (probably to allow rehemming, which may sound strange at first considering what those gowns cost, but that may very well be the reason.  After spending thousands on a gown, if the hem was not firmly pressed, it could, be rehemmed longer - it allows the possibility). 

    1. happy2sew | | #8

      Thank you for your help.  The skirt  has a lining, but stitching the hem to the lining interferes with the drape of the skirt material.  ( I tried it).  The skirt does not have an interlining, so I can't stitch it to the interlining.  Regarding soft pressed hems on gowns, I think they look much better than hard pressed hems.  Again, thank you for sharing.

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