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Hip grainline

JeanEsther | Posted in Fitting on

Peggy Sagers’ article on “5 Steps to Perfect Slacks Pattern” in Threads 114 was great. The diagram for slashing and spreading the back crotch, plus adding horizontal darts to correct droopy legs was clear and just what I’ve been needing. I made a muslin from this article right away, and it’s by far the best fitting yet.

Question: when slashing and spreading to increase back length (page 53 diagram), do you need to pull up the waist until the grainline at the hip is straight, or just until you can get the fabric comfortably under the elastic tied around the waist? On my test muslin, the back hip grainline still dips about an inch at CB, but the fit feels and looks pretty good.

Replies

  1. mem1 | | #1

    I have done this and done it until the distance is right and not worried about the grain line . It seemed to be fine.

    1. JeanEsther | | #2

      Thanks. When no one replied by the weekend, I went ahead and ripped the patches, increasing until the hip grainline was straight. Now there's bubbling around the tailbone that I'm having trouble smoothing with the darts.  (Kind of wish I'd left it alone!) This weekend I'll try again with fresh fabric, adjusted so no patches are needed, and see if I can get the darts right.

      1. kjp | | #3

        I have also done this & not worried about the grainline at the hips.  Remember that you are fitting your body's curves - pants don't hang straight from the hips!  Also, Peggy WILL respond to you if you email her through her website.  I had some problems with truing the crotch seams & she was very helpful.  Karin

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