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Hong Kong Finish on Princess seam

Stitchwitch | Posted in General Discussion on

I’m busy making an unlined jacket in a lightweight summer fabric. The style has a princess seam at the side front of the jacket. I want to finish off the seams in a contrasting binding. I have cut the seam allowances to 3/4″ to accommodate the binding finish. My concern is that the seam allowances will “crumple up” over the bust area because of the width of the seam allowance and I cannot clip the seam as it is an unlined jacket.  Has anyone finished off a princess seam this way and have advise for me? 

Replies

  1. meg | | #1

    Regarding your contrast fabric: have you cut this on the bias? I've always used bias cut fabrics for the Hong Kong finish because it will melt around curved seams much more easily. When you stitch on the binding, you'll want to stretch it a bit, and I think the 3/4" seam allowance may be too large.

    1. Stitchwitch | | #2

      Hi Meg, Yes I'm finishing off the seam allowances with bias dinding which is not the issue. I am worried about the seam itself. Normally you clip a princess seam to lie nice & flat but because this is an unlined jacket I cannot clip the seams. So I'm worried my seams won't lie flat.

      1. User avater
        CostumerVal | | #3

        Most of the Princess seam curve is somewhat bias itself and I've had no problem with getting a 3/8" seam allowance to lie flat unclipped.   Most books do advise that clipping is unneccesary with a 1/4" s.a.  I don't know the weight of your fabric.  Do you have a piece of scrap you can do a sample on?  That would be your best bet.

  2. Teaf5 | | #4

    You need only about 3/8" to 1/2" seam allowance to do a Hong Kong finish, and you can add it even if you clip the seam allowances.  Even if the jacket is unlined, the clipping won't show because the Hong Kong finish will cover the very necessary gaps in the s.a. that will help the seam lie flat.  On unlined jackets, I often use stretch lace (sold in packets as hem finishing lace) that covers the slim, clipped seam with a lovely pattern.

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