I’ve found that store-bought pants usually fit me with a baggy crotch (folds pointing horizontal or slightly up coming from the crotch). I have narrow hips and full thighs, and assumed that this was the problem, but even when I’ve taken in the hips on the side seams the problem stays. I generally wear my pants with minimal ease, so it’s not that there’s too much fabric or that the crotch length is too long, the pants fit in every other way. I have never seen this issue addressed in any of my sewing books, and I’d like to draft my own pants sloper so that I can make my own pants minus this problem. Any suggestions would be so so greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Sounds to me like you might need a little more ease through the thigh area, if it fits you OK through the rise and hips. I think there just might not be enough fabric to slip down over the thigh area when you stand. Maybe someone else will come up with another idea. I certainly am not an expert with fitting. Good luck.
That was my thought also. Maybe a pleat would help? And shortening the crotch length might do something. All that 3-dimensional adjusting is really hard to deal with, like squeezing a balloon.....the other side pops out. rjf
I still can't figure out how to reply to ALL.
rjf and CAROLFRESIA: Yes, I think yal are right. I had somebody help me do all my measurements yesterday and I think the problem might also have to do with crotch length in the front (too long), because the crotch length in back is usually okay or too short, due to my big behind pulling all the fabric the wrong way. Balloon indeed, my brain starts to glitch when I think about it too much. I think it will definitely be less of a headache to start from scratch with my own sloper (as opposed to altering or using patterns). Thank you for your thorough advice, it is and will be very helpful when I actually get off my big behind and put it to use. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks again, amy
I think you're right. It's probably at least part of the problem. I haven't been able to test this while altering store bought pants because there's no fabric to let out. Thanks for the advice!
Amy, if the problem is, indeed, fuller thighs relative to hip circumference (which is what is sounds like to me), there are a couple of alterations to try. First, narrowing the hips--at the side seams, or in the darts, or a little of both. The other thing, which I do on some pants patterns (depends on the style and how much ease is built in) is to increase the thigh area at the inseam.
Extend the crotch point out a bit (on the front and back pieces equally to start with, and you might then want to fine-tune it depending on your shape), which adds some girth to the upper thigh at the level of the crotch, then taper from this point back to the pattern's inseam somewhere around the knee. There's probably some official, scientific point where you want to get back to the inseam, but I usually just aim for around the knee--just make it the same on the front and back. If you find that you're having a lot of bagging through the abdomen and/or derriere, take a look at the overall crotch length. Maybe you can shorten from the waistline, or take a horizontal tuck somewhere between waist and crotch--that's what happens to me. I need the room in the thighs, and some in the seat and hips, but I don't need the waist to go up to my ribs!
Let us know how it work!
Carol
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