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How does the industry line a sleeve?

AAC | Posted in General Discussion on

Hope one of you professionals can help me here.  I’ve made one lined suit.  It turned out beautifully but the lined sleeve gave me a problem.  I prefer to do it all by machine without hand sewing.  So I bought a jacket at Goodwill and deconstructed it.

 What puzzles me is the sleeve. There’s no hand stitching connecting the sleeve and lining at the wrist, I guess I know how that’s done.   Then it’s easy to spot the top stitching on the sleeve lining where it was left open for turning, later top stitched closed.  It’s the shoulder seam where the sleeve connects that gets me. The seams connecting the lining and sleeve at the shoulder is smooth with seams hidden inside, no seams showing.   How was the top done?  I’m thinking that the lining is completed before inserting it into  the jacket.  So if that’s the case would you just leave part of the sleeve seam open for turning inside out?  It seems that you’d have a hard time laying out the lining and jacket to line up the sleeve lining and jacket.  I know they do things differently in the garment industry.

I’m brain dead!

How this makes some sense. 

Replies

  1. starzoe | | #1

    I am not familiar with the industry's techniques using just machine stitching, quality tailoring involves a good deal of hand work. I use a lot of hand sewing, it allows me to refine the fit, and in fact I enjoy using the needle. Some time ago there was an article in Threads called "bagging a lining". It should be on the index as such. I did try it, once.

    1. AAC | | #2

      Thanks, I'll look for that.

  2. rekha | | #3

    Have a look at the centre back of the lining, somewhere in the middle. You'll probably find topstitching there.

    I know because my daughter frequently brings her coats and jackets home for mending

  3. DONNAKAYE | | #4

    "I know they do things differently in the garment industry."  You bet.  But it depends on whether it's straight RTW or designer goods.

    I think the method you're referring to is what's referred to as "bagging" the lining.  If anyone else out there thinks this is what she's talking about, let me know.  I have numerous books that show the technique.

    I've got dozens of books that contain various methods of inserting linings.  If I can get into my studio later tonight or tomorrow (I'm working on a rush job right now), I'll pull it out.

    1. AAC | | #5

      I don't want you to go to a lot of trouble, it's just something I'd like to know.  I'm thinking of making another suit and I'd like to know how that's done....easily, I know there's a way.  But please, don't take valuable time away from paying customers.

      Alice

      1. DONNAKAYE | | #6

        Since my "paying customers" are attorneys (I'm a freelance court reporter), I don't mind one bit!  Ha ha!  (Any clients out there?  I'm just kidding, of course!).  Whenever I take a break from my desk, I go into the sewing room and do one small cleanup or try to find something I'm looking for or plan my next project.  No problem.  I'll do it tomorrow or the next day....donna

  4. SewFit | | #7

    Here's the link to an article from Threads on "Bagging" the lining.

    http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00034.asp

     

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