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How to finish double face wool

structural | Posted in General Discussion on

I have purchased a very expensive double faced cashmere that I plan to use for a cape.  The cape is unlined, what is the best way to finish the edges?  If you do a traditional hem it seems way to bulky.  Any ideas”




  1. annabanana | | #1

    I use good quality stretch fabric.  Swimsuit or other stretch that I cut on the crossgrain as wide as you want the binding to look.  Sew RS to RS, then turn and stitch in the ditch, catching the underside in the stitching.  Your strip must be wide enough to accomplish this.  You can easily trim the underside after you have completed the stitching if there is too much leftover binding on the wrong side.

    1. ShannonG4d | | #2

      The traditional method is as follows:

      Run a row of basting about 3/4" from the edge. 

      Separate the fabric (you'll see the threads locking the two fabrics together when you spread them apart).  Use a razor or seam ripper, and remove the threads between the fabrics just to the basting line.

      Turn the two fabrics to the inside of the channel you just created, then hand stitch them closed.  I've seen them closed with a zigzag stitch, but it isn't as attractive.


  2. mem | | #3

    Shannons idea sounds very good I have also bound such fabrics with a matching stretch velvet which looked lovely and lush . I trimmed the inside after stitching in the ditch with duck billed sissors I did all sewing with a very narrow zig zag . I wore this jacket for several years and it never frayed etc.The only thing you need to be wary of is that the weight of the binding will alter the movemnet of you hem line .This can be a design asset but you dod need to take it into consideration.

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