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How to interface pleated fabric

Evie | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Dear One and All—In my stash I found a piece of pleated—not even pleats but sort of scrunched- fabric. I guess I never used it because I didn’t know how to interface it. It is lightweight polester with inserts of cotton lace. Should I use a lightweight knit fusible and do the entire piece? It obviously needs support. I could make a really good looking top out of it-If I knew what to do. Any ideas?      Thanks, Evie 


  1. suesew | | #1

    Could you just line it?

    1. Evie | | #2

      Hi Suesew--I could line it but what I want to do is maintain the scrunched surface appearance. I would like to hear of a way to --say iron on a fusible to hold the little pleats -- then they would still be there just not quite so puffy.  Then make the top in the usual way.  I hope I am making myself clear. I saw something in Threads a long time ago. Does someone remember the article?            Evie

      1. suesew | | #3

        There are very light weight iron on interfacings that would do what you want. Could you try it out on a little piece first? I would think it might flatten it or stiffen it quite a bit and tghe flexibility of the fabric is one of the things you would want to keep.

      2. Josefly | | #4

        I think I would underline, rather than fuse an interfacing to it - just my own preference. An underlining cut from flat fabric would hold the shape, but allow the fashion fabric to pleat and fold as it's made to do, and stay soft and light. You might have to hand-baste the underlining pieces to the pleated fabric pieces near the seamlines, in order to maintain the pleating while stitching.You could then interface the underlining, but again, my own preference would be to bind neckline and armhole seams, to keep the whole garment soft and light. Have you already decided on a pattern which requires a stiffer fabric - i.e., with buttonholes, collar, etc. ?

        1. Evie | | #6

          Dear Josefly--I think I will do that. By coincidence the e-letter from Threads came today. It is a repeat of an old Sandra Betzina article all about underlining. She talks about quite a few different linings that I never would have thought of. We'll see. If I mess it up its no great loss since it has been in the cabinet for a long time. Thanks.     Evie   

          1. Josefly | | #8

            Ineedaserger, in the message above, makes a good point. If you underline, it may interfere with re-"scrunching" the garment after washing. However, isn't this polyester? - so I'd think it'll hold its pleats anyway. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

      3. ineedaserger329 | | #7

        In most of the RTW items I have seen, they use only one layer of this fabric. another idea is to line with the same fabric.....or a very light weight fabric that wrinkles easily....then air dry after washing but either scrunching or twisting, wringing it out....thats how you keep the wrinkled look.....I'm sure you knew, but some ppl don't so i figured i'd try to offer a little help. Good Luck...

  2. Teaf5 | | #5

    Definitely don't use a fusible; you'll flatten those lovely crinkles!  Most crinkled fabric is very soft and drapey and probably shouldn't be interfaced except at buttonholes.  If it's also sheer, bound edges rather than facings look better and eliminate the need for interfacing altogether.

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