Replies

1. 
   stitchmd | Apr 05, 2004 01:30pm | #1

   This pattern doesn't include a "lengthen or shorten here" line?

1. 
   mem1 | Apr 07, 2004 05:35am | #3

   No it doesnt .

2. 
   SewingWriter | Apr 06, 2004 12:18am | #2

   Wrap and surplice openings seldom have "lengthen or shorten here" lines because it's too complicated to explained to the consumer that serious adjustments will be needed in order to true the line.

   First, you need to figure out where the 3" you need is spaced out over your body length.  In other words, is it all above the waist (unlikely)....do the armholes need to be set lower (let's hope not) ??

   Try this first: make a copy of your pattern and slash it horizontally in three places between the armhole and the waist.  Place the sections on a fresh piece of tissue and tape them with gaps of 1/2" horizontal space between each section.  Align the sections according to the side seam.  The angled edge at the front opening will be all over the place.

   True the front opening with a French curve, blending from the slash line at the topmost section to the lowest slash line.  Then, add another 1-1/2" to the bottom hem.  Add 3" to the back hem.

   If that's still not enough, either try adding more space between the horizontal slashes (and deleting same from what you add to the hem) or try creating yet another slash above the armhole.  Of course, this means you'll have to adjust the back armhole and the sleeves.

   
   

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   Edited 4/5/2004 5:23 pm ET by SewingWriter

1. 
   mem1 | Apr 07, 2004 05:48am | #4

   Dear Sewing Writer , Thank you so much for your help. I am writing from Melbourne Australia so hello wherever you are .

   I wonder if you could advise me further?. I would like to use the same blouse pattern in a lightweight wool crepe and I think I should line it but am wondering if I should use the lining as interlining and so treat both layers as one or whether to treat it as a lining  with separate hem and side seams . I also wonder if the pleats which are pleated across the front of the tummy area would be included in the lining or whether the lining should be flat and exclude the pleats?

   This top will be like a jacket but worn on its own with only underwear .

   I have one other question.If I add in length above the waist at three points wouldn't I need to add in at the same points on the back pattern pieces?

   Edited 4/7/2004 6:41 am ET by mem

1. 
   SewingWriter | Apr 07, 2004 04:35pm | #5

   Greeting from the US (although if you subscribe to Stitches you'll occasionally find me there!)

   I'm assuming the front opening is finished with a facing, so I recommend treating your lining as an underlining.  Sew the side seams and shoulder seams of garment; and side seams and shoulder seams of lining separately (for a nice appearance inside). Then, place them wrong sides together and baste all edges.  That way, the lining pleats fall in step with the garment fabric pleats.  As to the hem, why not just treat it as a single layer?  Press the hem fold, remove the edge basting, then trim away the lining at the fold. You can line the sleeves in the usual manner and, after sewing the garment fabric to the underlined armsyce, slipstitch the lining in place to hide the seam allowances.

   As to the length, unless there's shaping in the back torso, there's no reason to slash the back pattern multiple times.  That's why I recommended simply adding 3" to the hem.  It all measures the same.

   Best of luck with your project!

3. 
   suesew | Apr 11, 2004 11:35pm | #6

   Is there a 'waist" line on thepattern? This should tell you if the additional length needs to be above or below the waist. If it needs to be lengthened above the waist I would cut it out of scrap something first with the extra length added and then fit the pleats and diagonal wrap directly on you or a dress form.