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how to line muumuu’s yoke

MtnBoy | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I got a vintage pattern with a blouse length muumuu, gathered into a squared yoke. There are front and back yoke pieces (each cut on the fold at center), each with an underlining which is stitched to the yoke, then front and back joined at the shoulder seams.

My skills are rusty, but 45 yrs ago (so, skills are actually VERY rusty) I made this style with a lined yoke that covered the shoulder seams and the seams where the gathered bodice and back attach to the yoke. Much more comfortable against my skin.

I’d like help creating the yoke lining and with the construction. I don’t have a serger. (Using Butterick #3024–couldn’t find a pattern with the construction I want.)

Replies

  1. Tatsy | | #1

    The easiest way to do this is to sew the facings together. Sew the neck seam and finish as you like. Then turn the facing and yoke so that they are right sides together. (The main part of the dress will be sandwiched between the right sides, so it's important to keep the dress out of the way while you're sewing.) Stitch the front seam first. Finish as you like. Shift the dress so that the back yoke and facing are right sides together, then stitch, and finish the seam as you like.

    This leaves the yoke and facing with raw edges along the sleeves. The quick and dirty way is to sew them, wrong sides together, and pink the seam allowance to prevent fraying.

    If you want the whole yoke, including the seams along the armscyes to be finished, you use much the same process as above, except that the order is changed. Sew the front seam first and finish, as above. Then sew the seams above each armscye, and finish. You obviously won't be able to sew the whole back seam on the sewing machine, but you can sew toward the center seam, leaving a 3" or 4" opening in the back. Finish the edge you've sewn as you like. Turn rightside out. Press. Slipstitch the remaining opening closed.

    1. MtnBoy | | #2

      This is intimidating, but many thanks. The sleeves are raglan. Looking at a ready-made muumuu I have, it looks easier than it sounds. Seams where the sleeves attach are enclosed in the yoke too.I must reread your instructions and ponder them...

      1. Tatsy | | #3

        There's another way to do this. Leave the seams on the facing open at the shoulder, but turn under the seam allowance and press. Stitch the neckline. Finish. Press. With the shoulder seams open, the facing is easier to turn--but I've forgotten the rest of the steps because I don't use it that often. Someone else may remember. And there's always the option of slipstitching the outside seams by hand after you've pressed the seams under.

        1. MtnBoy | | #4

          Know of a pattern I could buy? Could be for child, doll--anything. I posted under the Patterns discussions too. I might need the complete sequence in pictures!

          1. Tatsy | | #5

            Sorry. Commercial patterns fit me so badly I usually draft my own. The very easiest way is to press under all the seam allowances and hand-stitch the facing into place. It's TV work and shouldn't take more than one or two evening hours.

          2. MtnBoy | | #6

            Thanks, again. I can see that handstitching would truly be the easiest way--at least the most understandable for this old dog. This might be a style I want to make up in lots of fabrics since it's reliably comfortable. So, it's important to master the technique.

  2. gailete | | #7

    What I think you are asking for, I remember doing to nightgowns back many years ago. I always hated doing a rounded neckline because it was so hard to fold that seam allowance under and then sew it down on a curve catching in the nightgown and other yoke.

    If I'm thinking this through right you need 2 sets of yokes. One for the outside and one for the inside lining. Sew each of them seperately at the shoulder seams, then right sides together sew them together at the neckline. Clip and grade any curves and seams and then flip them together wrong sides together.   Attach the bodice/dress part to one of the yokes right sides together and then press the other yokes seam allowance inside and hand or machines sew the other yoke down around the edges catching all the pieces (dress and other yoke) inside.

    Hope this helps, but maybe I misunderstood you, I hope not as I would hate to lead you along wrong.

     

    1. MtnBoy | | #8

      Yes, I think that's it. I ordered a nightgown pattern that says it has a lined yoke. I do think the pictures would help me through the construction process, but I understand the sequence now.
      Many thanks.

      1. gailete | | #9

        Oh good, I'm glad I could help! I'm so behind experiencewise, from many of the ladies here, I'm always happy to be able to impart a little bit of knowledge.

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