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How to Modify Sleeves for Better Mobility by Andrea Schewe

sewerinprogress | Posted in Techniques on

This was the best underarm sleeve adjustment explanation i have ever seen. I will use one of these 3 methods as often as the  project calls for it.  I have experienced this problem in ready to wear and with some patterns. Some individuals have larger  upper arms. Also I use a lot of vintage patterns.  Her method of teaching is very easy to follow. Thank you for this video.

Replies

  1. NicolasBlack | | #1

    I'm so glad you found the explanation helpful! Dealing with adjustments, especially around the underarm, can be a bit tricky, but getting it right makes such a difference in the fit and comfort of a garment. It’s great that you have a few methods to choose from now. Working with vintage patterns can be challenging due to sizing differences over the years, and having larger upper arms definitely adds a layer of complexity. Kudos to you for tackling these challenges! If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask. Happy sewing!

  2. seamstress4style | | #2

    I have added gussets to both the underarm and the back of the armscye, and that does in fact work. With a print fabric , the back armscye gusset is not noticeable and folds out of the way when the arm is down, preventing gaping fabric over the back shoulder blade that would be there with an upper broad back adjustment, at least in the cotton poplin fabrics I have used. What works better—flattening the sleeve cap, as she talks about in the video of my memory serves. This makes the sleeve insert into the armscye at more of a 90 deg angle and is how men’s shirts are drafted and sewn. It doesn’t allow for a perfectly fitted sleeve with no draglines, but I have found that the draglines aren’t that bad and arm mobility is more important. Petal sleeves drafted from a sleeve with a regular high sleeve cap also work—the sleeve breaks away as the arm moves forward. Only for above-elbow sleeves, of course. A sleeve from a 1940s pattern with five darts at the sleeve cap added enough volume that my arm mobility is good in it, also. Gathered sleeves may be similar. But I can’t drive comfortably in a dress made from a woven with a high sleeve cap and no gussets, even if the woven has some stretch. And that’s a no-go.

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