I think I need to increase the crotch length at the crotch points. I have a full seat and full front thighs. Pants tend to pull down at center back and be too high at center front. I also have a short crotch depth so I plan to shift the crotch length from above the crotch to the crotch point.
Does it really matter if I add the length to the front or back crotch point? Since they connect to each other at that point, it only affects where the inseam falls on the leg. I see patterns vary on where that seam falls and wonder what affect it has.
Edited 3/29/2004 5:42 pm ET by Angie
Replies
I have a similar issue. When I tried adding all the length at the back crotch point, the legs twisted and the front started pulling at the thighs. On my last try, I lowered the depth in the back (reshaping the curve so it dips more in the back and less in the front), then remeasured and added about 2/3 of the remaining to the back crotch point and 1/3 to the front. This gave better results, but I'm still working on perfecting it. I'm going to try pattern making software for the next try.
There is a book called "Customize Your Sewing Patterns for a Perfect Fit" that has an interesting twist on measuring your crotch length. Take 2 tape measures and join them together (with tape) at the zero end. Then put some kind of small weight on a string and let it hang from the join. Take the joined tape measures (along with the hanging weight between your legs) and measure from front waist to back waist. As you do this adjust the hanging weight to the position along your crotch line to where you want your crotch point to be. The number on the front waist will be the length of the front crotch and the number on the back waist will be the length of the back crotch. These things are always harder to explain than to actually do. I hope that you can understand my attempt.
Mary
That sounds like a good idea. I'll try it. The other thing I need to figure out is how much of that length needs to be above and below the curve. I'm short waisted with protruding rear and front thighs so most patterns (or RTW) don't fit at all. I guess I should be able to see that with the tape measures and just look in the mirror to see at what point the curve breaks. I was also going to try using a flexible curve to see the shape of the back curve. Pants that have a decent slant to the center back seam fit better on me. I don't have much of a waist (boyish figure) so I think I need to take fabric from the center back and add it to the side seam.
As complicated as this is, I actually enjoy trying to figure it out as long as I can keep a good attitude and not get frustrated. I try to think of each pair of pants as a learning exercise and not focus so much on the end product. I have a goal to make a perfect fitting pair of pants before I die. I just hope I live long enough to do it!
You can get a good idea of your curve using one of those flexible curves. Hold one end just in front of your crotch and have a trusted other hold the other end in the back. Then just squat down. The person in the back needs to put a little pull on the flexible curve so that it curves in around the butt. Good luck.
Mary
Yes, it does matter. It affects the fit. Too much at back inseam and the fit is baggy, same with front. I am on a quest to make perfectly fitting pants and have searched many books and every back article in Threads to that end. Recently I bought a new book that is very good Pants for real people, by Palmer Pletsch. No amount of measuring really translates into the complex curves in pants. This book simplifies fit and the pictures are great . I found my figure flaws well illustrated. The other thing that I have learned is that when you join the inseam pattern sewing lines for about 4" they should tilt down to the back to match female anatomy. That definitely helps comfort and is more like the hang of really good pants.
Good luck, Nancy
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