Inseams not hanging straight
I’m using the Taunton Press “Fitting Solutions” book. Page 97 explains how to continue fitting pants after inseams and crotch seams are stitched leaving a zipper-length opening in the front. The grainlines are marked, a fitting band is placed around the waist to hold the unfinished pants on. Once adjusting the pants so the grainlines are straight, I see the pants hang well at the front and back crotch. Next, the inseams must hang straight down the legs half-way between the front and back. The length of pant I’m working on is about knee length. Beginning a little below the point where F+B(crotch area) pieces meet, the R+L backs gradually swing foward such that there is about 1/2″ or so extra fabric at the unfinished edge or where the hem would eventually be. I’ve pinned, repinned this way and that way, without satisfactory results.
I’m not understanding something! Is this a waist fitting issue? A crotch fitting issue? Please help!
(Once the inseams are straight, the next step is to pin the side seams.)
It sounds as if the back pants pieces are too large or that you have a flatter bottom than the patterns expect. Most patterns are ilustrated with the back of the pants hanging straight down from the apex of the buttock curve (like a comma), but mine doesn't stick out enough to do that.
With my flat bottom, I take up the excess (almost 1 inch) at the center back waistline so that the legs don't droop downward and forward. This adjustment doesn't change the width at the hips (which I need) but allows the back pieces to hang directly from the waistband.
Try on your pants again with the fitting band and tug up on the center back seam to see if that adjustment will help.
so are you saying that the seam on the inner crotch seam is longer on the front than the back and that you could if you didnt have the enquiring mind that you do , just chop it off and have a straight leg hole edge??
I wonder if the back piece isnt too wide and that maybe you need to take a Dart from your butt area down to the edge of the leg hole down the center back ?
Well, yes. Does pulling up the back at the waist correct the problem? If your butt is flat, like mine, less fabric is needed to cover it.
Yes, I see how pulling up the CB seam completely changes the way the pants hang not only at the inseams, the side seams and how they hang from the apex of my bottom. I see I have some more tweeking to do!
Thanks very much!
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