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inserting bra cups in a gown

Bettefan | Posted in Fitting on

I’m about halfway through with my daughter’s prom gown, and I have run into a problem. We need to sew bra cups into it, and I purchased a pair today, but I honestly don’t know what to do with them! The dress is two layers…chiffon over charmeuse. Should I simply see where on her the dress hits while she has it on ( there is no specific pattern piece where they would go), and sew them in to the underlayer, or should I attach them to a stretch fabric and elastic “bra”, which I would attach at the side seams? I am SO lost!


  1. suesew | | #1

    The bra cups I am typically asked to use are covered with a flesh covered fabric , serged close around the edge. I usually just do a catch stitch along the top edge of the bra cups, fastening it to the lining where I want it to be. In some ready to wear it is obvious where the point of the bust is and in some you can just put it where you want it. Be aware that bra cups will not give any support to a bust that needs support.

    1. Bettefan | | #2

      Thanks...I realized that we would need more than just the cups as soon as we tried it on. The girl doesn't need support, but we do need something to make the cups stay where they are supposed to! A friend suggested that it might just be easier to work with a purchased bra...pin it to the side seams, and tack there and in front, cutting off the back. I think that's what I'm going to do...and then I'm telling her that if she ever gets married, we are BUYING her wedding gown!

      1. Imzadi | | #3

        "A friend suggested that it might just be easier to work with a purchased bra...pin it to the side seams, and tack there and in front, cutting off the back."

        I did that to an outfit once. It worked out great. Much less work than trying to figure out where each cup goes.

      2. carobanano | | #4

        If you decide not to use a purchased bra (or even if you do), you might want to use double-sided tape to secure the bra cups. Painful, yes. But it worked for Jennifer Lopez!

        1. TERISEW | | #5

          I agree, that double stick Toupee tape works everytime, you can purchase it at one of those hair replacement salons. It is very strong. And nonirritating.

          1. Bettefan | | #6

            Heere's what I did: we took a great-fitting bra and cut off the straps. Then I tacked it in front, made loops to pull it thru on the sides, and sewed the straps of the gown to the bra cups. The prom was last night and it worked out well. This dress was chiffon over charmeuse, all on the bias, and very difficult to get right...but it fit perfectly and DD got many compliments. Now to relax (just kidding..I am cooking up a storm for the graduation party on Sunday!)

          2. Elisabeth | | #7

            Do you have any pictures? It sounds so beautiful, I would love to see.

          3. Bettefan | | #8

            It's Vogue 7387, view B. The underlayer is gold charmeuse, and the over layer is chiffon that shades from gold through amber to brown. definitely it was the only brown gown in town!

          4. Elisabeth | | #9

            Wow! What a fabulous gown it must be! I love that pattern, I stop at that page every time I browse through the Vogue catalog. With the shifting colors and those fabrics, perfect and definitely worth all the effort and agony!

      3. louise | | #10

        Dear Pensk

        Take heart! You are heading in the right direction.  I had the same dilemma when I was making a silk charmeuse camisole and pants to go under a brocade jacket; I wanted support for me, but no strap lines or "back fat bumps" from a bra.  Here is what I did.  I took an underwear camisol that kept me where I wanted everything and cut off the straps.  I sewed the garment straps to the camisole and fashion fabric as one.  I left everything else unattached.  You do have to measure the strap fairly carefully as it will take all the weight of the bra/cami to provide support.  A bra should  work the same way and this is a simple quick way to provide support or shape.

        I would suggest you try it with a muslin and perhaps an older bra or -  baste the newly purchased bra into a test muslin with the straps slipped off  the shoulders to under the arms.  This way you can check the strap length needed, resulting fit and silhouette.  If it does not work, you haven't ruined the bra and can begin to think about a strapless. 

        If it is any consolation, my garment problems and the subsequent solution was the first time I had thought "outside the box" and I have never looked back!  When you have finished the prom dress, you will probably be itching for the wedding dress.


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