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Interfacing weight for wool coat

vharden | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I am making a winter coat from Harris Tweed. The pattern calls for “lightweight fusible interfacing.” I was actually thinking of using fusible hair canvas to give the coat body, at least on the fronts. I wouldn’t consider hair canvas interfacing to be “lightweight,” however. Does anyone have any advice on the type of interfacing to use in wool coats? Many thanks.

Replies

  1. User avater
    Balencia | | #1

    Not sure it am right to do so but I am lining my boucle wool jacket with a stretch lining and using stretch iron on interfacing in certain areas and may use a bit of twill tape on the shoulders to stop that area from stretching.  I am actually copying an old jacket I have in a alpaca type wool and without lining it fits beautifully cupping my every curve and stature in a way that stiff interfacing and lining would not allow I think  - food for thought -

    only trouble is jacket may not last as long without a nice lining and the inside does look better.  Someone is bound to bring up the fact also that lining does not need to be restrictive! and can go with the stretch of the wool.  I have gone on a bit and as you can tell I did not plan this answer  - sorry about that.

    1. vharden | | #2

      Many thanks. I do appreciate your comments. I hadn't thought about stretch interfacing. Good idea!

      1. User avater
        Balencia | | #3

        Well my comment about going without a lining may have been a bit hasty as it would look a bit messy and embarrassing to show off the inards without such tidying up.  I have a question back though as the  sleeves on my wool boucle jacket are actually two piece and I have been trying to turn into one piece to save on fabric!  do you think that would be foolish? know anything about the workings of two piece sleeves? ta.

        1. vharden | | #4

          I think the two-piece sleeve provides more stretch for your arm to bend. Here are a couple of comments I found when I searched Google for "two-piece sleeve":This website has a great discussion of how a one-piece pattern should be shaped to provide enough room for the arm to bend:
          http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-04.html Here is a comment from a sewing review website opposing one-piece sleeves:I did not like the fact that the sleeves were one-piece. Typically, I never sew a jacket pattern unless the sleeves are two piece. For me, wearing a jacket with one piece sleeves feels like I'm in a straight jacket. (At times, I probably should be wearing a straight jacket!) I thought it would be okay since the sleeves were cropped.Hope this helps.

          1. User avater
            Balencia | | #5

            Yes that helps - I will definitely stick to two piece sleeves and take the sleeve apart carefully to use as a pattern  - thanks.

            Edited 2/28/2008 5:45 pm ET by lgardener

          2. User avater
            Balencia | | #6

            Just another point -  I was confused by the threads issue regarding interfacing the sleeve armhole when talking about a shield and sleeve header - do you know where they should be placed and whether they would be used for a wool boucle jacket - thanks.

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