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Intro and ease pleat hem question

alainaz | Posted in General Discussion on

Good morning,

First, my question: In Threads 135 Feb/Mar 2008 “Little Black Dress from Start to Finish” pg 33 item 9, the author says “The lining- formed with a small ease pleat- will cover the stitches as its joined to the fashion fabric with a loose but secure running stitch”.

I’ve never seen or heard of this technique before. I don’t even know what to ask about it! Does anyone know of a more detailed explanation for this anywhere? Or even pictures. I’ll try to clarify what I’m wondering:

-why is it called an “ease pleat”? (does it actually lend ease?)
-are there any pattern changes necessary?

Second, a short introduction. I’m a graduate student at NYU in Costume Studies, with a degree in patternmaking from FIT. I worked for a year and a half in custom-businesswear, but found it too stressful. I volunteer (and hopefully will soon work!) in the Costume department at the Museum of the City of New York. My special interests are historical sewing techniques, primarily 19th c.

-Alaina Zulli


  1. jjgg | | #1

    I don't have the issue handy at the moment to look this up, but was it referring to the hem? it would be a small pleat like in the bottom of jackets. then the hem of the lining is sewn to the hem of the dress holding it in place and it covers the stitches of the fashion fabric hem

  2. starzoe | | #2

    If you have a ready-to-wear lined jacket or coat in your closet, take a look at it. At the sleeve hems and the jacket hem the lining will be turned under and tacked onto the hem leaving about an inch loose. This is to allow for movement and incidentally hide the stitching of the hems. The turnunder allows the lining to move with your body without stressing the outer fabric. It is not at all uncommon, in fact almost every lined coat or jacket is done this way.

    1. User avater
      alainaz | | #3

      Thank you both, I understand now. I was thinking pleat= tuck.-Alaina

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