I just bought the invisible zipper foot for my VIking sewing machine thinking it would make invisible zippers painless. It’s a nice foot, however, I’m still having trouble. The problem is that since you don’t baste the seam together before putting in an invisible zipper, I am having trouble making my horizontal waistline seams match on both sides of the zipper. I’m sure your more experiences sewers have some tips to share with me. At least I hope so. THanks in advance!
My trick is - after I've sewn in one side of the zipper, I close zipper, then lay it out as if it were togehter and make a couple (or more, dpending on lenght of zipper) matching marks with a removable mark of some type. I mark perpendicular to the zipper on the zipper tape and on the fabric. So, in your case, the waistline seam would be one mark and you would mark where it is supposed to match on the zipper tape. I always mark the top of the zipper so that the ends are even, then maybe a couple more times. I use these marks to pin or baste the zipper tape to the seam. Have never had any problems since but it took me a few mismatched waistlines and uneven ends to figure it out.
After messing up (in several different ways) I decided that it was worth the time to hand baste an invisible zipper before machine sewing it. I baste the first side, then sew it, line up the waist and baste from the waist up to the top then from the waist down, then sew it. Haven't had to take one out and re-do since making the commitment to baste by hand. Hand basting takes less time than picking it out and doing it all over again!
Thanks. I thought of basting, but thought there might be an easier way.
I use a narrow zipper foot and mark the top of zipper and the match point on the fabric. Second, I baste with the machine, both sides and then I check to make sure it is where I want it. Then I sew.
Not hard and easy to take out if wrong.
I own a Viking, too. I don't have an invisible zipper foot, though.
I use the technique described in Thread #119 (june/July 2005), which uses a regular zipper foot. This technique has worked well for me.
I'll look it up. Thanks
no matter what kind of zipper it is, I find that it is really important to sew in the same direction on both sides of the zipper. If you sew the first side from the waistband down, then you must sew the second side also from the waistband down. The fabric sometimes moves that fraction of an inch that causes a mismatch.
I LOVE invisible zippers and I think I've discovered a few secrets. First of all, buy the invisible zipper foot they sell that goes with the zippers--it's made by the same manufacturer. Those things are made to sew those zippers perfectly -- and they do! Don't use a foot your machine manufacturer provides and don't use a regular zipper foot. Second, follow the instructions on the zipper package EXACTLY. The secret to a really invisible zipper is to iron the coils as flat as possible. That's really crucial. Also, use a lightweight interfacing in the zipper area of your garment, and be sure that your needle will fall 5/8ths of an inch in from the raw edge. And don't be tempted to sew the seam first. Big mistake. There is no reason to baste except for a few pins. This is a really easy zipper to install but you really need to follow the instructions on the package.
With some Vikings and Berninas, that ubiquitous invisible zipper foot won't fit. I have put zippers in with regular zipper foot and with the pintuck foot on my Bernina. Both are workable, but not as easy as the invisible zipper foot.
I couldn't use the invisible zipper foot on my Pfaff 1229 but the zipper foot for the machine has two groves on the bottom that work perfectly using the center hole.
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