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Jacket help needed

HeartFire | Posted in General Discussion on

I have 2 questions I could use some help with, I am making a vintage vogue pattern 2786,  for a wedding I’m going to in a few weeks,  the jacket is a very sheer burnt out velvet (black base with darke teal/burnt orange floral pattern) which I have underlined with a burnt orange crepe back satin (its really georgous!!) – I will use the same crepe back satin for the dress.

question1 – I have interfaced all the main jacket pieces with a fusi knit, but I did not interface the sleeves (should I?) and, what should I do for a sleeve header to give a little more support in the sleeve cap??

question 2- for the front facings, (they dont show – there is no turn back collar) should I do the velvet over the satin or just the crepe back satin alone?

Thanks for the help – Judy


  1. FitnessNut | | #1

    You probably don't need interfacing in the sleeves of the jacket, but you are correct in thinking that your sleeve cap might need a little support. What I have used very successfully in a non-tailored sort of garment that needs this type of support is a football shaped organza sleeve head (maybe bias?), folded in half and gathered along the raw edges to fit the cap area. I have the instructions in a book somewhere and will look it up if you are interested.

    As for the facings, I think that the satin alone would be fine and would definitely be less bulky.

    It sounds like you will have a stunning outfit when you are finished....wear it proudly!

  2. SewNancy | | #2

    I agree with Sandy, don't use the velvet on the facings, too bulky.   Also,  you could use a bias  cut interfacing, fusible  to shape of top of sleeve using pinking shears for bottom edge and this will keep head from collapsing and pinking will keep it from showing.  Also, you might want to interface hem of sleeve to give it some body.


    1. HeartFire | | #3

      Nancy & Sandy,  Thank you for the help, I did go ahead and fuse the sleeve cap, it doesn't show -and I used an organza sleeve header, they came out pretty good, one of these days I'll get really really good at putting in sleeves...  oh, and thank you for the hint to fuse the sleeve hem, I did that too.

      The lining went in without a hitch, all I need now is that one special button for it,  I'm going to try and attach some pictures of it,

      now I need to make the dress, its very interesting these vintage patterns, the construction is just 'different'.  The dress is bias cut, with a plunging V neck front and back, sleeveless.  There are no facings, no interfacings etc in the dress, it just calls for a baby hemm on the neck and sleeve edges (the  V neck is on the straight grain).  I think I might fully line the dress (my body alas is not the type to put in a slinky bias dress without some help (and I will have the jacket ! LOL!!


      1. Elisabeth | | #4

        That is a really nice jacket! A satin dress under that will be the ultimate in 40's movie star glamor. What great colors. I'm looking forward to seeing the dress so I hope you post!

      2. sarahkayla | | #5

        it's just beautiful

      3. Michelle | | #6

        That's an absolutely stunning jacket! Enjoy wearing it :)


        Shelly ( in Jerusalem)

        1. HeartFire | | #11


          The wedding happens to be in Ganei Barkai (Kibbutz Barkai) we leave for Israel a week from today, We'll be in Israel for 10 days, my sister lives in Ranana, and my son is staying with her right now.


          1. SherryG | | #12

            I agree.  That jacket is stunning.  You do good work!!

            Sherry in Texas

          2. Michelle | | #13

            Hi Judy,

            Believe me, you're going to be the 'bell of the ball!'

            That's so nice to hear that you're coming to these parts - Is there any chance that you'll be in Jerusalem? (Or perhaps I could show you the fabric district of Tel-Aviv?)



          3. SewNancy | | #14

            What gorgeous fabric.  It looks wonderful.  It is a stunning jacket .  You mentioned that one day you'll learn how to set in sleeves.  Maybe the fault is not yours, but the pattern.   I have found that sleeves often have too much ease  particularly for fabrics that don't ease well.  The  Chanel style jacket I made recxently is a Burda and I was amazed at how well the sleeve went in, first try.  There was just the right amount of ease and it made all the difference.  I have had more trouble with Vogue patterns.  Cecilia Podolak talks about this in her Easy Guide to Jackets.  I also use the bias strip method to put in a sleeve that Sandrda Betzina describes.  It is almost foolproof.

            Mazel tov.


            Edited 8/19/2004 5:48 pm ET by Nancy

          4. HeartFire | | #15


            Yes, I agree part of it was the pattern, there was too much ease in the FRONT part of the sleeve! and the sheer part of the burnt out velvet would not ease/shrink.

            Well, I made the dress, but unfortunatly it needs lots of help and I don't really have the time to spend messing with it right now, so its off to buy a simple black dress and I'll worry about fitting it after I get back! (see, I made it a size larger than I really need but it really needs to be about 2 sizes smaller! - no complaint there)and it would be a simple matter of a few tucks on the sides, except that there is that inset panel on the sides which needs to be taken out, then shortened etc etc. also, the inset panels are all gathered up, and I'm not happy with the way the crepe back satin lays when gathered - its too "beefy" and doesn't fall into nice drapes, maybe I'll use something else for the panels.


          5. mem1 | | #16

            Judy I love your jacket. My 11 year old son Simon likes it too!I actually like the idea of a black dress under it as i think it wil accentuate the beauty of the velvet flowers more that an orange dress would. Have a wonderful time at the wedding

          6. RitaRae | | #17

            Hi, Judy...this is my first visit to this site because I'm trying to find some help with the exact pattern in this discussion!: Vintage Vogue #V2786. I'm making it for a client as a wedding dress! The dress fabric is silk ($46 per yard; yikes!) and the jacket is a really wonderful taffeta. It's really gorgeous and I think it will be beautiful in the end. The comments I've read already are very helpful, but here's my problem: The bride's 'neck to waist' measurement is only 13.5 inches and the pattern size she needs (16, according to bust meas.) is 16.5 inches long.

            I'm looking for ideas on how to shorten the waist! With the cutouts, it seems impossible. I thought of literally cutting out above and below the cutout area and then.......but actually, I can't even complete that thought. It won't work. I think maybe I bit off more than I can chew with this particular client & Pattern. They just may not be a good fit!

            Any thoughts? I hope I can figure out how to get to your reply.......Rita

          7. HeartFire | | #18

            If I remember correctly, the pattern said there was no proisions for changing it above the waist! That said, you can do one of two things, first, just make it up in muslin and pinch it out that way, or two you can try shortening the waist length in the paper pattern and then try it in muslin. you will have to shorten the inserts to fit after the main pattern pieces are changed. I don't think its entirely impossible.
            What type of silk are you using?.
            The other thought I have is find a smaller pattern with the front waist lenght that will fit and enlarge the bust area, its done on the bias so there is plenty of 'give' to curve over the bust. - this may actually be the easier means of doing this, just cut it in muslin first!

          8. RitaRae | | #20


            Thanks for the help. I am constructing a muslin...in a size 16 to fit her bust line. It's been a long time since I used a Vogue pattern and I could use some thoughts regarding how true they run to size? I know that with other pattern companies I use a larger pattern than what I buy ready made. (I have a large bustline, also!)

            I'm not sure of the type of silk. The receipt is in the bag and I'll look at it when I get home. It's thick and very luxurious. We're hoping the dress won't need to be lined.

            The pattern does say there is no provision for adjustments, but I think I can make it work with a muslin. The neck to waist length is the same for the 12, 14 & 16 so I can't really go to a smaller pattern size.

            What did you use for your dress? The jacket was absolutely beautiful!

          9. HeartFire | | #22

            I ended up not finishing the dress, (or at least I havent finished it yet!) I was making it out of crepe back satin, it needs to fit very snug so the ruching in the inserts stays gathered looking, esp in the heavier weight fabric - or you can hand tack it invisibly so it stays ruched. The way the pattern is constructed its the tight fit in the torso that keeps the gathers in place. and this fitting needs to be done before the inserts are put in. In muslin you can always pin out the excess, but make sure you take into consideration the amt of strech your fashion fabric will have may differ from the muslin in the bias.

          10. RitaRae | | #23

            This is really helpful. The fabric I'm using for the muslin is pretty close to the silk in the way it drapes and its weight. (just for fun, my husband helped me conduct a 'blind' test by putting both fabrics in my hands at the same time and mixing it up... I picked the silk 100% of the time with my eyes closed, but it's close enough, I think!) The best part is that I only paid $2 a yard for it on SUPER sale, saving my client some $. Again, thanks for the help. I'll try to post a picture of dress and jacket at completion.

          11. suesew | | #19

            Are you sure that you are comparing back waist measurements - from the knob on the back of the neck to the waist? I too would make a muslin first. If she really needs a size 16 for her bust she may take up a little extra length going over the bust line.

          12. RitaRae | | #21

            Thanks for your help. I am making a muslin and I'm pretty sure I can pinch out enough room.........may have to shorten the inset also, but hopefully her bust will pull up some length.

      4. kjp | | #7

        Absolutely stunning jacket!  It inspires me!!  I agree with lining the dress.  It would make a cleaner finish at the neck and arms & would help the drape of the dress.  Your outfit is going to be gorgeous. 

      5. FitnessNut | | #8

        Gorgeous!!!! You did a fabulous job and it will look terrific. I also agree about lining the dress. You will feel more comfortable in it and the neckline and armholes will have a clean, professional finish. Don't forget to show us the completed dress too!

      6. carolfresia | | #9

        Wow!!! That is fabulous. I hope the bride  and her significant female relatives won't mind being upstaged by you at the wedding. I can't wait to see the finished ensemble.


        1. User avater
          ehBeth | | #10

          That is just a brilliant combo of fabrics! I wouldn't mind something like that as a grown-up person's wedding ensemble.

          Don't forget to share pix of the dress - and you!

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