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jacket sleeves too tight

ElSews | Posted in Fitting on

Hi,  I am finishing up my first jacket.  I put it on and discovered that the sleeves are too tight around the bicept.  How do you fix this problem without making the sleeve too big for the arm hole?

Thanks,

ElSews

Replies

  1. user-51823 | | #1

    generally a sleeve pattern is widest at the armhole and slopes in. draft a new sleeve on some scrap fabric, but keep the seamlines parallel this time. have someone help pin it around your arm when your muscles are flexed and as big as they get.

    if this is still unsatisfactory, consider sleeves out of a complimentary stretch material, or removing sleeves and making a matching top from another pattern with better sleeves to wear as a jacket.

  2. suesew | | #2

    I have added a gusset to a sleeve and side seam in order to make a few jackets usable for some growing customers. Open up the underarm seam where the seams meet and then open the sleeve seam as long as you need to and add in a triangle of fabric. Do the same on the side seam and resew the underarm seam. This is hidden under the arm. While it is not the perfect solution, it does work for some.

  3. physicsgirl | | #3

    I submitted this question to thread's for the Q and A section (we'll see if they pick it up), but then I also thought to look it up in this book:

    Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach

    You can find used copies for ~$27 on Amazon... or also try one of my favorites:  Albris (which connects you to used bookstores).

    I'd like to eventually make my mom some tailored pieces, since she has this problem with ready-to-wear!

  4. mem | | #4

    hello I have to do this with some patterns . Cut out the sleeve pattern in some scrap tissue and the slash up the center but not through the stitching line in the cap cut from the edge though the seam allowance just short of the previous lash This means that you have a pivot point. then cut from the slash along the biceps line out to where the armhole starts on the sleeve pattern Do the pivot thing which I describedabove do this to both back and front of the sleeve. You now have a sleeve with a cross shape slash in it. open up the center slash as much as you need to and you will notice that the horizontal slashes start to overlap . When you have opened it up use sticky tape to anchor the overlapping front and back horizontal slash  and insert a piece of tissue paper in the vertical slash and stick this in place . cut out another sleeve using this new pattern and check that it fits and hopefully it will and go on from there.You end up with a large dart shape insertion and beecause of the overlapping happening along the horizontal line you dont get a concurrent lengthening in the armskye If you need to add in alot you may have to add into the side and lengthen the armhole a bit . If the cuff ends up too big then shave some off the sides and taper it up .If you have an "odd Bod" consider investing in a fit book like "Fit for every body"

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