My problem is that I am a really curvy girl. It means quite a big difference between hip and waist circumference.
I have made a basic pant pattern (pant sloper) for myself, which I have used successfully many times and altered for many styles also (There is nothing suitable for me in ready to wear). Now I tried to transform it to quite classic jeans, but faced some severe problems with jeans front. (No problems with back thanks to yoke).
The fabric choosen was denim corduroy, what meant that I had to maintain all vertical lines carefully. To do so, I had to alter both front darts and front middle seam (because of big difference between hip and waist, the central seamline on my front pattern is not vertical, but has a slight angle, i.e. my pant front seam is a hidden dart, too). I did not want folds instead of darts, so I tryed to close dart dividing exess in two parts. I re-sketched the hip curve, taking away first half of my dart, but I could not hide the other half, so I decided to ease it out.
Nevertheless my attempt was not very successful. The amount of fabric length was too much to ease, or I’d finish with gatherings. So I discarded my initial idea of avoiding pleat, and added one.
I am not quite satisfyed with my own solution. I got a pair of jeans and they fit OK, but they have still pleats I don’t like much.
Could you suggest some better ways to solve my problem?
Sorry for my bad English, this is not my first language.
With best regards
Edited 1/19/2009 2:45 am ET by Annemari