Hello ladies, I’m hoping you can offer some advice…
I’m preparing to cut out a BWOF dress from silk jersey, and the pattern calls for knit lining. All I could find locally was knit swimsuit lining. I’ve seen “knit lining” or tricot online (Spandex House) for a good price ($4/yd), but since I can’t touch it and I’ve never used a knit lining before, I’m not sure if it’s what I need. The bodice is my biggest concern, as the dress has no facings at the arm or neck, so the lining may be slightly visible at the edge. Here is the line drawing.
Advice? Move forward with the swimsuit lining (very close in color and lighter in weight than the silk jersey), or order from Spandex House? This dress is for a family wedding in 2 weeks, and I’ve spent a small fortune on the silk jersey, so I do want to do it right. My only other option at Joann’s was PowerMesh, and that didn’t seem right at all.
thanks in advance,
Kristine in Michigan
Edited 11/1/2008 7:06 am ET by kbalinski
Replies
Kristine, how does the stretch in the swimsuit lining compare to the stretch in the dress fabric? As long as you put the greater stretch around the body, and accommodate for the chance of "growth" in the skirt, I would see no problem. Swimsuit linings tend to be good linings, made to withstand vigorous use. My only concern is if there is greater looseness in the stretch of the lining than in the fabric. I would rather go for a similar colour of lining with this style of dress. It is a great pattern!
When you turn you lining, undersitch the seam allowances to the lining side. This prevents the lining from turning out and the lining will not be visible. This will give your edges a nice clean crisp finish as well. Since you are working with a knit, you might also want to stitch your lining a smidge smaller than the outside pieces to aid in the turn. Similar to the same technique that you would do with a collar.
Try a scrap sample to see if you like the effect Girl! That will make your decision a lot easier. Cathy
So much good information! Thanks Cathy, I'm eager to start working on this today, so you're reply is helpful and timely! The stretch is very comparable, the color is nearly the same, and the lining is just a tad lighter in weight than the silk jersey. I always stitch the seam allowance to the lining side, but I don't know if I can this time, since I'll be stitching all the way around the neck and the arm holes, then turning the lining out through the shoulders (make any sense??). I'll plan using your technique of stitching a smidge more on the lining side to help make it invisible.
Thanks again!
Kristine
No worry, just understitch as far as you can. It will make all the difference along the front neckline, and around the major part of the armholes. The narrow part of the shoulder will not tend to pull out as there is a lot of fabric in there that fulls it out anyways. Just be careful to staystitch those front edges, they will really want to shift out of shape. Have fun. Cathy
Once you've finished understitching as far as you can, you might stitch in the ditch of the shoulder seams and side seams through all layers to keep the lining from rolling outward.
Good point Teaf! Cathy
Along these same lines, sorta, I have a inexpensive knit top/sleeveless sweater that is a color I love and has been one of my "go to" tops. It is knit with 55% Ramie and 45% cotton, and no I was not careful to follow laundry instructions. My problem is that is has lost it's body. I really like this top, and given my penchant for recycling clothes, I want to do something to make it wearable in public, so I am open to ideas.My idea was to get fusible tricot interfacing, take the sweater apart at the seams and press it on and then reseam. My thoughts were to butt the tricot up to the hems at the armholes and neckline and to the band at the bottom (3/8", all of them). I've never handled this interfacing, but I've seen for sale sheer, feather weight, light, medium and heavy. I'd like this to give the top some tiny bit of body, but I still want the top soft. What would you do? I mean besides throwing the sweater away....
I like Palmer Pletch fusible knit interfacing. It's soft and drapes beautifully. http://www.palmerpletch.com and Denver Fabrics has it, maybe some others. I don't like the stuff from the local fabric stores, it is stiff and not as nice or soft to the touch.
For armholes and hems, you might try the strips on a roll of Seams Great, it's a wonderful product too. good luck I hope you are able to save it Mary
You could also use a knit fabric and some places have knit or fleece binding.
Edited 11/16/2008 10:24 am by MaryinColorado
Mary, I cannot get that website to come up. I even changed browsers (from Mozilla to MSIE) thinking that would help. And to further compound the problem, I couldn't find that lining at Denver Fabrics. I will however look at different fabric houses. If you've successfully used this product I'm certainly willing to try it. I don't mind it changing the hand of the fabric just a tad. And if it doesn't work, no big loss. I can't wear it now anyway. That's how I approach most of my rehab projects.
which website won't come up? PP or KK? Mary
Pletsch has an "s" in it. Try this one:http://palmerpletsch.com/
ooooooooops!
Typos - we all make them. :>)
You saved the day with the correct spelling! Thank You! Mary
You're welcome. I'd never been to that site, and I'm glad you posted the link... I had fun looking at the P/P online fashion mag.
Not to worry about typos. If it weren't for typos, I'd hardly type anything at all! I've looked at the site now. Interesting material. I'll be ordering some. I think the weft if just exactly what I need. Thank you so much.
hope it works out for you
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