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Kwik Sew Fitting Guide

marymary | Posted in Fitting on

Kwik Sew has a fitting guide posted on the web site that is relatively new.  Since I am always trying to figure out why I can’t fit myself, I decided to read it.  I learned something, but have not put it to the test.  You are not supposed to go from one size to another when you trace off a pattern, according to the directions.  You adjust the pattern after you have chosen the correct size.  Haven’t we been told the best reason for multi-sized patterns is so that we can use the different parts to make a whole?  What would be the reason for not doing this?

Replies

  1. User avater
    ThreadKoe | | #1

    Hi Mary
    If you look at the pattern pieces as they are drawn out on the pattern sheet, you will notice that each size is not just wider, but the curves at the waist and hip are in a different position for each size, as well as the curves at each armhole. Most pieces only share CF, CB, Bust point, and waistline markings. The pattern pieces have already been graded for the most common fitting adjustments as you go up in size, the extra length for taller women etc. Other Pattern Companies only grade up for width, not length.
    You can use the other pattern sizes to size between, however, you must first trace out the first size, then shift the pattern to the next size and then adjust for the difference. Just MAKE SURE TO MEASURE ALL SEAMS AGAINST EACH OTHER to be sure they are the same lenghth and curve as it is easy to forget which one was the one you decided on to trace. Been there, done that :( Cathy

    1. marymary | | #2

      ThreadKoe, are you saying that Kwik Sew grades differently than other pattern companies?

      I am not a beginner and usually have success in going between patterns.  This was the first time I had read not to do that.  It just surprised me because I thought the original reason for the multi-sized patterns was to be able to use the different parts to make a garment that fit.  I start out with one size at the shoulders and go through many different sizes to get to the hips.  Takes a lot of manipulation.  I think I will follow Kwik Sew's directions and see if I get a better fitting garment.

      I like Kwik Sew patterns because of the simplicity.  I like having a place to start and be creative.

      1. User avater
        ThreadKoe | | #3

        No, not at all, what I am saying is that they lay out their patterns differently. The sizes do not all line up exactly one on top of each other like other patterns do. The Larger/Smaller sizes are graded for the different back length differences as well. This means that there may be as much as a half inch shift up or down on a waistline or hip curve in a pattern that you have to watch for. I ran into that problem when making a dress. Fortunately it was a knit and I could just recut the side seams with the curves in the right places. Tee hee :) Actually, if you sort of follow the way they say, start with one size, you can use the other sizes to follow for making the changes like a regular multi-size pattern, just remember to adjust for the changes in back waist or hip depth.
        I like the patterns for the same reason you do. They are really good basics to do lots of things to. Because the different sizes have different back lengths, it is a lot easier to fit than all that paper folding .
        CathyEdited 6/17/2008 7:45 am ET by ThreadKoe

        Edited 6/17/2008 7:53 am ET by ThreadKoe

        1. marymary | | #4

          I see what you are saying, now.  I always have to adjust for length, so finding the curves in the wrong place hasn't been a problem for me.

  2. rekha | | #5

    I was curious and went to the Kwik Sew Support site. 

    I tried to copy and paste the document but the jpgs don't print. Here's the link.

    http://www.kwiksew.com/Support/default.cfm An indispensible reference guide for all skill levels. View Image Measuring and Pattern Alteration Guide

    Mark Cathy's comments

    1. User avater
      ThreadKoe | | #6

      Kwik Sew is very similar to another set of old Basic knit patterns I have.  The online manual is similar to the one I use for adjusting those patterns.  At least for knits.  Cathy

      1. User avater
        ThreadKoe | | #7

        Was reading the guide and found another reason why they tell you not to use the patterns as a multi-size. The patterns are graded up for cup size as you go up in size. By the time you get to a 4X you are at a DDD cup size. So I will go out on a limb and say that Kwik Sew does grade differently than other major pattern companies, and Bravo to them! Cathy

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