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Lined Hoodies & how to finish them

AriRenee | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Hello everyone,

This is my first time using the Threads gatherings section. I have what i think may be a simple question that I can’t seem to find the answer to. I have been sewing fully lined jackets and sweatshirts, but when it comes to finishing the bottom ribbing I have been having a hard time finishing it off. Should I use a blind hem? whenever I try to tope stitch the “inside” of the ribbing it doesn’t look right to me on the right side of he fabric.

any suggestions? I use sweatshirt fleece, and wools with regular ribbing.

Thank you everyone!


  1. MaryinColorado | | #1

    I attatch ribbing with a 3 thread overlock on my serger which has a differential feed that stretches the ribbing as I go along.  I think you may have success using a zig zag stitch while stretching the ribbing a bit, holding from both behind and in front of the presser foot a few inches.  (When they are lined, I hem the two layers togeather with the same stitch first (or a rolled hem on the two layers first, then add the ribbing.)

    Welcome to the forum!  I hope to hear more from you and maybe see some photos of your work!  Mary

    1. AriRenee | | #3

      Thank you both for your suggestions, I didn't think of jsut using 3 threads instead of four on my serger. I am still working out blind hems, but maybe a zig zag sitch with a walking foot would work? hmm.. what I did instead to see what everyone might say is..

      1) I cut a 5 1/2" strip slightly smaller than the length of bottom of the sweatshirt

      2) then I serged it on, and sewed in my zipper and lining as one. but I did not sew the lining hem to the ribbing,

      3) instead I then pressed the extra 1/2 left of the ribbing under,and hand stiched the ribbing to the lining. the finish was what i wanted, but...I thought that I could finish it with my sewing machine.

      The reason why I ask, is because the pattern is of my own drafting,and I have worked out the other kinks, and basically I am figuring it out as I go. I have made a few, but when it comes down to the last step, heming, I always seem to go"ok..know what." I will post pictures soon, but maybe just a quick blind stich is my way? I don't know..let me know what you think.Am I making to many steps?  I don't mean to ask to much!

      But I most definately appreicate the feed back!

      1. MaryinColorado | | #4

        Your way is fine and probably provides a very professional looking finish.  I just don't do any more hand stitching than I have to anymore because I have arthritis in my hands. 

        Since you are doubling the ribbing, I wouldn't do all 4 layers at once because the ribbing should be facing the plate for the differential to do it's job combining the different stretch of the fabrics.  I would do the two layers of fabric and one of the ribbing all at once with a three thread wide overlock. 

         Then I would stitch the other side of the ribbing right next to the seamline, using the sewing machine's zig zag stitch, or preferably,  a stretch stitch if your machine has one.  I think it would be difficult to do this with a blind hem stitch because of the knits. 

        I hope this makes sense. 

        1. Josefly | | #5

          I'm having a little trouble visualizing how all the ribbing, outer fabric, and lining all are fitting together, here, but your description of what to do looks like a good way to do it. The final stitching, though - do you think this is a good place for a twin needle, which, on my sewing machine, provides a nice stretchy seam? I'm not sure how many layers of fabric we're talking about here, though - is it 2 or 4?

          1. MaryinColorado | | #6

            I understood her to mean 4 layers: the outer fabric, lining fabric, ribbing that is stitched with seams hidden to both of them at the hem and I suppose cuffs too.   The double needle might work well instead of zig zag, as long as she uses a stretch needle. If I understand her needs correctly.  Mary

  2. starzoe | | #2

    Are you using a single ribbing, or a double ribbing? I have found the nicest application for ribbing is to use a double width, folded so there is no "edge" at the bottom of the hem to finish. Maybe I am misunderstanding your question though...it's been known to happen this early in the morning!

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