I am making my daghter a wool tweed mini that would either have a facing, or contour waist. I want to line this and not use the wool for the inner facing. BWOF tells you to just attach the lining at the waist. I can use twill tape to prevent stretching at waist, but is there would be no interfaced facing. Is there a way around this? I don’t know if taping the waistline is enough support. Any suggestions?
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To fit my body, I choose skirts with a contoured waist facing. Then the lining is attached at the bottom of the facing (cut off lining waist the length of waist facing). I would suggest a lighter weight of wool, interfaced, for the waist facing and also use the stay tape. God bless you, Galey
the other way is to use gro grain ribbon and the stay tape . The ribbon needs to be the real one which can be shaped with the iron to match the curve of the waistline When you look at it you will notce little loops along the edge of the ribbon. . I have also seen pretty cottons used to coordinate with the shell fabric as the facing around the top .I think the fit would be superior with a facing and the lining attached to the facing It would work better with zip and a hook and eye as well . Do use the stay tape however . I dont shrink the tape when I am putting it into a waist band as it the starts out snug and relaxes with wear and so does its job of not allowing stretch to take over better.
I have a favourite vogue pattern (now out of print) for a skirt that is lined, contour waist reinforced with stay tape, and the lining is cut to the same pattern as the skirt (ie no facing, just lining with stay tape to reinforce). I have made the pattern up five, no make that six, times, in a range of fabrics, and it has never disappointed.
It is particularly good in lightweight wool, with the lining right to the top being very comfortable, but has also been quite satisfactory in linen fabric for summer. The instructions are to make up the skirt in fashion fabric, as well as the lining (back seam left free where the zip goes) and then, with right sides together, baste around the waist, apply stay tape along stitching line, sew. Then trim, turn to right side, and edge stitch along lining as close as possible to the seam line. On one version I topstitched from the outside, but either seems to work.
If the fashion fabric is bulky, or a bit uncomfortable against skin, then this technique could help.
regards
Susannah
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