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lined topstitched yoke dress?

MtnBoy | Posted in Patterns on

Struggling to adapt an old pattern, I posted in the gen. discussion about a muumuu. I think I’ll have to find a pattern with instructions that shows me, in pictures, how to do what I’m attempting. Does anyone know of any pattern that shows a muumuu style dress with a lined yoke that totally encloses all seams that join the yoke?

I’ve found another pattern in this style, but don’t know if the yoke is made the way I want (Simplicity 8281 from 1993) at: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.pagesandprint.com/Simplicity%25208281.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.pagesandprint.com/1980-1999_3.htm&usg=__PicIWqVJA89x4Tj275I5sq8E1ZY=&h=1270w=870&sz=482hl=en&start=43tbnid=rsa_ItftUHyXdM:&tbnh=150tbnw=103&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dlined%2Btopstitched%2Bgathered%2Byoke%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D40


  1. stillsuesew | | #1

    I'll bet the one without the collar would be very similar. It needs to use the yoke pattern for the outside and the facing. A nightgown pattern might give you the information you need because it wouldn't have the sleeves to confuse you.

    1. MtnBoy | | #2

      Yes, I didn't think about the nightgown. I ordered the pattern.

  2. sewelegant | | #3

    If there is a technique to fully enclose all the seams in this type of yoke, I doubt if you will find a pattern these days with instructions for doing that.  Many years ago I remember sewing the lining of a sleeveless U-neck dress all by machine.  You have to think it through, but it called for leaving an area open so you could pull everything through to sew the last seam.  It reminds me of what quilters are now calling the "birthing method".  I'm sorry I can't be more specific because I would have to try to figure it out again.  I also remember doing shirt and blouse yokes all by machine by sewing one layer then turning things inside out to sew the other.  Like I said, it's not hard you just have to think it through.  This method was not in the pattern instructions it was in a sewing article I happened to read.  It could even be in an old Threads, but I have no idea where.

    1. ljb2115 | | #5

      Louise Cutting (Cutting Line Designs) has a pattern "A Perfect Blouse" which has detailed illustrations about completely turning a dress or shirt yoke without ANY hand stitching.  In previous posts, I have mentioned Barbara Hellyer's book "Sewing Magic", which covers  yokes, collars, stands, etc.  The book is out of print, but in rare cases one can borrow or find in some libraries.  Margaret Islander has the same information in her yoked-shirt patterns.  You will never get this type of information from one of the major pattern companies.  David Page Coffin's "Shirtmaking" book does not address this method. The only mention of sewing yokes is on page 116.  If you are an ASG member, the latest "Fall 2009" issue of "Notions" magazine has a comprehensive article about shirtmaking by Pam Erny.  Her website/blog is:  http://www.offthecuffstyle.blogspot.com.

      1. Sancin | | #6

        http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/ is the correct site. Need the dashes or you get an offer to buy the site!! It is a good blog.

        1. MtnBoy | | #9

          Interesting site; I bookmarked it. Also, my library is wonderful and I'll bet they can get that fall issue of Notions for me.

        2. decoratrice | | #10

          Oooh!  Off The Cuff is a great blogspot!  I learned things I didn't know I needed to know, and this will be something I'll follow from now on.

        3. joyfulneedles | | #11

          The Off the Cuff blog is a great site, I have also bookmarked it to return to again. 

          I thought I was adventurous on the web, but I only know a tiny part of it. 

          There is an old Ziggy cartoon; he is out in his car on a mountainside and says, "I'm at the end of the information highway, now what do I do?"

          With people like you on this site, I will never get to the end.


      2. MtnBoy | | #8

        Thanks. I'm printing out your post and the others to add to my project box. I had several of the Islander books years ago, but gave them away since I felt I was mostly in over my head. Amazon has the Hellyer book, used, but at current prices I believe I'd better check the library for that.

  3. joyfulneedles | | #4

    Did you finally conquer the process of  the yoke attachment.  I have done several a long time ago.  One of the things I did learn was that the yoke definitely needs an interfacing or the wear, over time, the fibers disintegrate.  After stitching the yoke to the front and back, it needs trimmed to 1/4-inch and clipped.   The facing needs a row of stitching around the outside edge on the seam line to fold under and press that edge under and pin in place.  If you are comfortable in hand stitching that down, or if there is enough fabric over the seam to stitch in the ditch on the machine. 

    I have the pictures in my mind, but it is much harder to write.  That was the neckline to one of my favorite nightgowns.

    I hope you are doing well with your project.

    1. MtnBoy | | #7

      Thank you. I did find an old pattern with directions to do as you said and stitch in the ditch. I plan to try that, as I find it more durable and comfortable than hand stitching alone. An unexpected family illness has derailed all my projects for awhile, but my project box is set up and waiting.

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