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Lining a jacket with a center back seam

Singer1976 | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I need some help lining a princess seamed jacket with a shaped center back seam. The pattern is Simplicity 4302, view D. I have made and fitted a muslin which will become the underlining for the jacket. The fabric is a soft woven so the underlining is necessary for added structure. I am also using a lightweight interfacing on the entire underlining. The pattern calls for a partial lining – the side fronts and a two piece combination backstay-lining to allow for movement and stability of upper back. However I would like to add a full back lining to hide the underlining and seams. Ideas anyone? I have added a lining to a simple unlined jacket that had no center back seam by adding a center back pleat to allow for movement as shown in a previous issue of threads (May 2000 Number 88). Is the technique for a center back seamed jacket similar?


  1. User avater
    Becky-book | | #1

    As long as the jacket itself is not close-fitting, the lining does not need to be exactly the same configuration as the fashion fabric. You need the seams that join lining to jacket to match, but a back seam in the lining or not is up to you. You don't want the lining to bunch up and make lumps that show!Becky

    1. Singer1976 | | #2

      Thank you. The jacket is fairly close fitted and the lining fabric I have chosen is lightweight. I know I can take tiny tucks in the waistline to adjust any lining fullness there.

  2. fiberfan | | #3

    The technique is similar when the jacket has a back seam.  Add the pleat to the back seam allowance and mark the pleat lines by measuring in from the seam allowance.  Sew the back seam before making the pleat.  If your jacket isn't very long, you can make a curve into the normal seamline at the waistline so the pleat is just between the neckline and the waistline.


    1. Singer1976 | | #4

      I can see what you're describing. I believe that would work so much better than the other method I was thinking about.


      1. zuwena | | #5

        You might want to use the jacket back as the pattern for the lining but adding the bit for the pleat in back.  My one concern is that fiddling with the back piece may disturb the grain line of the lining and if it does not hang as the jacket itself  you may find some distortion in the final hanging and fitting of the jacket.  One way to take up the extra, if you use this method is to widen the seam allowances by an extra bit, approximately 1/8" over what you are normally using for the outer fabric.  Z

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