I am making a wool jacket that I will wear perhaps once every few months. It’s Simplicity 4230 (sorry I don’t know how to post the link!). I want to make the lining out of some fabric I already have. It’s a very lightweight twill(I think) that has some sheen and a slight bit of stretch, perhaps 10%. Should I cut the fabric on the crosswise grain to minimize the stretch, or does it really matter? Of course, I asked the assistant manager at the fabric store and she didn’t have any idea what I was talking about. I asked the cashier and she told me to cut it on the bias to prevent it from stretching!
Given that this is more of an experimental garment rather than an exceptionally functional one I am hoping that the stretch fabric will do, as I got it for $2/meter and the only other lining option was $13. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thank you for your help!
Nicole
Replies
Do it so the stretch will go around your body With only 10% stretch it will be fine . In fact it might be better than a non stretch one . Treat it as a woven fabric. I would wash it first however as that should take care of any shrinkage that can happen even with dry cleaning.
I agree, with 10% stretch going round your body the fabric will be fine and sit well and fulfill the functions of a lining. Of course wash it.
Before you use the lining, you should probably do a test run with a couple small squares of each fabric (after pre-washing each). Stitch them together like a small pillow case, turn, and press. You'll get a good idea about how they work together, whether the stretch is an issue when stitched to the wool, and how crisp the seams and hems will be when turned and pressed. Start with identical swatches and experiment with different seam allowances on each side.
This small sample takes only about five minutes but can save you countless headaches down the line!
Thank you everyone for your help with this lining project. While I enjoy learning about garment sewing, I seem to have a steep learning curve with this one! I am hoping that most of my 'touches' will be hidden, but who knows. Thanks for the help!
Nicole
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