Lining-saving layout for straight skirts
I usually buy black quality rayon lining in 10 or 20 yard increments from my favorite shop in Manhattan. I sew many straight tailored skirts in dark colors, so black simplifies my color choice for a linings. Since most of the wool skirts I line are 60″ wide and the lining is only 45″, I was looking for a non-standard way to cut out the lining so as to save fabric. I thought of cutting crosswise, but wanted to maintain the strength inherent in the lengthwise grain.
Today I had a Eureka moment, which I thought I’d share, for what it is worth. I first laid out my lining right sides and selvages together, as usual. Then I slid the top selvage toward the fold until the two layers were only the width of the front piece (which was to be cut on the fold). I measured the distance between the selvages to make sure the new fold was on grain, then I cut out the front.
The left over single layer I cut off at the length of the skirt. I moved down to the next length of lining and unfolded it to be a single layer. I flipped the single layer I had cut so it would be right side to right side with the next length of the lining. (One selvage close to me, one selvage away from me.) I then cut my back.
The next time I cut out my lining, I will have a width at the top of my length of lining that is just the size I need for my front, and I’ll repeat the process. That way, every other skirt, I will get a “free” lining, just from smarter cutting.
Hope this makes sense–hard to do without a visual aid.