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Conversational Threads

Lining/Underlining Silk

Pica | Posted in Fabric and Trim on

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Hi everyone: I am probably in the category of poly/cotton hacker when it comes to sewing. However I have been fortunate to have a wonderful wedding dress pattern designed and drafted for me and so consider the gauntlet thrown and am undertaking the challenge. Specifically sewing with silk satin. My local fabric store suggests lining with Bemberg lining. On inspection it looks and feels awfully slippery to me. Anyone have any suggestions for an alternate lining and underlining material that would be easier to work with. One slippery fabric does not deserve another! Any other tips, suggestions, techniques, etc. gratefully welcome. Thanks Pica

Replies

  1. Ghillie_C. | | #1

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    An expensive silk fabric deserves a silk lining the exact nature would depend on the style. Is the skirt full and needing holding out or is it slinky and in need of a slinky lining?

    A fitted bodice might need interlining. I would probably use a cotton lawn or light muslin.

    Why don't you ask the designer of the pattern what she recommends?

    1. Victoria_Miesle | | #2

      *I try to use bemberg lining to line my silks whenever possible. Despite its' slippery nature, I think you would like it. As far as working with it(I have never had any problems), you may want to use 'mircro serrated edge shears' to cut it. These shears prevent the fabric from sliding over the blade and getting uneven cuts(Gingher makes them). As far as marking your lining fabric, what I find works best is to use a 'hera' marker--it's a smooth edged hard piece of plastic where you 'draw' on the fabric leaving easily seen 'creases' that come out easily with pressing. When sewing (again, I've not experienced it's slippery nature being a problem) you may want to use extra pins. If you need further assistance while working with this fabric, just email me. I really do believe that you were properly advised to the appropriate lining fabric. Good Luck.

      1. Pica | | #3

        *Dear Ghillie C. Thanks so much for the reply to my question. This is useful information and I have contacted the designer on this. Having this information makes the project less overwhelming. Pica

        1. Pica | | #4

          *Dear Victoria,Thanks for the information about Bemberg lining. I have decided to go with it as it seems to have a particular spring and life to it that compliments the silk very well. I am going to find a pair of these scissors which is a fine solution to getting a good smooth line. Thanks again, Pica

          1. Sheila_ | | #5

            *Victoria - I was unable to send this note to you via your e-mail. Hope you see this. Anyone else with info or opinions, please respond.My daughter's wedding is next June. She tried on a wedding dress that she fell in love with. Price: $2200.00. The dress is very simple and I'm confident that I can sew the dress for her myself. I've been sewing for over 40 years and in the past five years have specialized in bridal sewing.I've made lots of veils, bridesmaid dresses and recently sewed gorgeous fabric roses that cascaded down the back of a Vera Wang dress. Really fun!The dress she tried on was made of gazar silk. A local distributor here is tracking down a source for the silk. I've been doing some research onlining/underlining silk, and have found several recommendations including silk organza for underlining and China silk for lining. However, I've never heard of bemberg - can you tell me more about it? Thanks for any advice you can send my way.

          2. lin_hendrix | | #6

            *Hi Sheila, Bemberg is a high quality (really quality) rayon mill in Germany. Bemberg rayon lining is the top quality lining (if you want rayon). It's very smooth, light-weight, comes in a gazillion colors. It is not silk though, so if you're a purist... If your local fab store doesn't have it bothVogue Fabrics by Mailhttp://www.myvoguefabrics.com/and Sawyer Brookhttp://www.sawyerbrook.com/ carry every color.--lin

          3. silkscape_ | | #7

            *A note of caution...Pins and stitches can "scar", or leave permanent holes in some satins and silks, so you may want to keep pins in the seam allowances. I've never used silk satin specifically but have had the problem with other silks.

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