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Linings and underlinings.

sunnycenter | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Hi everyone,
I’ve been away from this site for a long time because of password difficulties, but I’m back. I have a question about underlining. I want to underline a men’s jacket. The pattern comes as an unlined jacket. It is Vogue 7004. I want to use an underlining that provides maximum warmth with minimal bulk. Flannel seems to thin. But I’m afraid if I use anything thicker, like fleece or something, it might be hard to sew in the zipper and have it look nice. Any suggestions for how to tackle this one? I’ve only underlined one coat, but it did not have a zipper down the front and I used flannel which was not bulky.

One more question, I’d like to get a really good book or video on linings. Any suggestions? I want lots of different choices for how to line as RTW seams to use all different types of lining installations. And it would be good to know how to line around slits and plackets too.


  1. Pansy | | #1

    Man, I gotta think fleece would be too bulky.  Hmm.  Since the pattern specifies that it be unlined, then perhaps fleece WOULD be too bulky.  I looked it up and it's not meant to be a cold weather jacket, really.  Maybe try just a wee bit heavier flannel?  And then line it with something suitable.  Don't forget: someone will be wearing clothes under this thing, so it can't be TOO warm!  I have done a flannel underlining before and it works nicely. 

    Seems to me Taunton Press has a linings book.  Check there.

    1. sunnycenter | | #2

      Yeah, I think you're right. I run cold so I always try and sneak in extra warmth any way I can, but I'll just go with flannel underlining and lining. Thanks for looking it up and giving me a well thought out feedback on it.

      1. Ralphetta | | #3

        Have you checked any of those companies that specialize in outer wear?  I've had catalogs from companies offering fabrics that are designed for extra warmth, or rainwear.  I'm pretty sure they sell fabric that is lighter in weight than flannel..but much warmer.  Maybe Thininsulate (that's not the right sp but it's close.) I assumed you were talking about cotton flannel. 

  2. HeartFire2 | | #4

    Probably the easiest way to do this would be to attach the underlining to each fashion fabric piece and serge the edges together, then put the jacket together. If you use flannel, make sure you pre-shrink it several times, as it has a tendency to shrink and then shrink some more!

  3. sherryv | | #5

    Here is a link to that book on linings:


    I have a copy of this - it's excellent :)


  4. LindaG | | #6

    Another thin lining fabric is single sided micro fleece. I find it on the Wazoodle website (Fabrics/Polar Fleece/Specialties). It's warmer than flannel.

    1. ctirish | | #7

      You need to go to the www.maldenmillsstore.com  site. They have polartec in three different levels plus other materials that are thin but keep the wind away or keep you dry. They even have one that can be used for underwear - it is thin and warm.  Good luck

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