I read recently that using bias tape to finish hems screams home made. Unfortunately that’s all I can remember. Now, only I see the inside of my garments and have been using bias tape to finish all my hems for decades. Because topstitched looks so cheap to me I seldom use it. So I’m faced with hemming a pair of rayon slacks, what to do, what to do? What are you all doing to hem your garments?
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Replies
Alexandra, that is only one person's opinion! A finely finished edge, using bias tape speaks of care and attention. Hem tape says the same. Doubled and hand hemmed also says someone bothered to use couture methods. A machine stitched hem stitch is perfectly fine. A top stitched hem is appropriate for casual pants and jeans. It is all a matter of preference. One should do what one is comfortable with, and gives the garment a neat professional finish. Cathy
A hemmer foot on an ordinary machine makes almost invisible stitches and is simple to do.
You can get "hug snug" it's a rayon tape for hemming. Google it and you will find it. The problem is I don't think you can buy it by the yard, you generally have to get it by the spool, and I'm not sure how many yards are on a spool. It does come in very many colors.
Thanks for your responses. I looked up hug snug tape, it's 100 yd on a spool; pkged hem tape in 3 yd lengths would be more practical and serve the same purpose. I've finished pant hems by serging the hem edge, turned up and hand stitched before. I was just wondering how other sewists were finishing their hems.
Thanks
I got out my ancient Vogue sewing bible and read the hem finishes; one I had overlooked all these years I thought would be perfect for my rayon pants. Turn under 1/4" of hem, stitch through hem only, turn up rest of hem and hand stitch hem. This worked really well as I thought the serger threads would be too bulky for the light rayon and mark when pressed on the right side.
In the future, you might considering getting a few spools of a serger thread called "Metrolean". It is very, very a fine thread - the finest of any serger thread I have ever seen or used.
If you use a three thread serged edge (including using it in the needle), you will not see an edge on the right side of the fabric. I use this almost exclusively when finishing edges.
Hi, I am very interested in the thread you call metrolean. I googled it and got sites for stuff for cars to meats to a Lot of Spanish sites. I have no idea what they were about. Can you tell me where to go to get some of this serger thread? Thank you.
Hi Deeom: I bought mine in the Portland, OR area when I lived there. I don't recall the exact name of the shop, but it's a shop that sells Pfaff, Bernina and Janome out in the Beaverton, OR area. I've seen it on line too, so I'll check it out once I get settled in my new house (I'm packing and under the gun right now ...but wanted to get back to you with a short message so you'd know that I'll be "on it" as soon as I can). Right now, I'm hard pressed to just breathe.
Thank you for getting back to me. I can be very patient. Have fun with the new house and the moving and unpacking and deciding where everything "goes".
You are most welcome; and if I don't get back to you by the first of September, please feel free to send a PM (personal message) to remind me via this Website. If you haven't done it before, all you have to do is to click on my name, and then "Send E-mail" and I'll get your message.
Try it with the spelling "metrolene."
I did try metrolene spelling and did indeed find it. Had two hits. One said that it was no longer being made, but Exquisite Stitch has it and I will send for it and try it. Thanks
Glad it worked out. Tatsy
Thanks Tatsy, for the spelling correction. Obviously I made a typo. Sorry everyone, for the confusion.
You're welcome.
On rayon slacks, I use a machine hem stitch on a full 1" hem. Keep the top thread tension very, very loose, and the "zag" fairly narrow but the stitch length very long so that it just catches the fold as you stitch along the turned up hem edge.
When you open the stitched fold and press it flat (from the inside to prevent a ridge) the top thread glides through and holds lightly without tugging, and the tiny picks are very even but barely visible.
On loose rayon skirts or wide palazzo trousers, I use a topstitched double 1/4" hem so that it flows with the fabric.
Maybe I'm just ignorant, but as long as you cannot see how you finished them from the outside, how is anyone going to know? As long as you are happy with them and they sit fine - what's the difference?
Laura
Ah, but there is a cachet in knowing your clothing looks as good inside as out.
Never hear such a thing. Candidly if it hangs correctly and is cleanly finished inside.... it's light years away from even expensive bridge career wear. If it's appropriate for the outfit, I say go for it.
Plus so many so called experts these days can't spell finish..... they don't KNOW, because they weren't buying clothes when they were beautifully finished inside and out at even modest price points.
HI Alexandra,
I would just like to weigh in on the end of this discussion to say that a bias trimmed edging is never out of place--not always needed, not necessary depending on the quality of the fabric and the design elements. Bias trimmed hemming is, in fact, one of the hallmarks of couturier sewing. Anyway, however, you decide to trim your edges, the important thing is that inside should reflect the time and effort you have put in on the outside. Z
well said, Z. well said>>Anyway, however, you decide to trim your edges, the important thing is that inside should reflect the time and effort you have put in on the outside. Z<<
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