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MAD AS HECK AND CAN’T TAKE IT ANYMORE…

canei | Posted in Fitting on

HELP from one and all. I’ve been sewing for a very long time and have yet to find a pant pattern that fits well. I’m almost on the right track with KS-3469 I use the 2X waist, 3X hips and 1X for the legs (don’t like them too wide). I have to lower the front by 1.5 inches +/-, add an inch or so to the front for my thick thighs….there’s one thing. I ‘ve been getting about an inch or so in my ahem…crack, like in the lower portion. And for th life of me I can’t seem to fix this…HELP ME PLEASE. I have a book on fitting pants but it doesn’t seem my have my problem in it. Can someone point me in the right direction?

THANKS!

P.S. WHAT CAN I DO TO KEEP THE WAIST BAND FROM ROLLING DOWN?????


Edited 4/13/2009 11:06 am ET by canei

Replies

  1. mainestitcher | | #1

    I would suggest cutting the curve a little deeper where the pant wants to dig into your anatomy. Do this carefully, one quarter inch at a time, and trimming a little of the fabric too, because if you don't trim it, you won't feel or see the advantage the new seam provides.

    1. User avater
      canei | | #2

      thanks!

  2. sewelegant | | #3

    Have you tried drafting your own pants pattern?  I too could never get the fit I wanted until I purchased the Coni Crawford book on pattern making after attending one of her seminars and have made a couple pair now that I am happy with.  It is easy to follow her directions.  You just have to accept the unusual looking shape you are making as "normal" because, for you, it will be!  My problem is apple shaped, but I don't think that makes much difference.

    There are probably many drafting books out there; how about the library? So you may not have to buy one and there is also a blog I found interesting:

    http://sewingforlife.wordpress.com/2008/03/12/katherine-hepburn-inspired-trouser-pants-part-1-of-3-drafting-the-pattern/

    You can click onto the Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin for a free guide on how to draft your own pattern.  It's a vintage sewing site, but the knowledge is very up to date.  I've copied it off to my "library" for good reference.

    As for a rolling waistband... I might try a facing instead of a band.  It might eliminate the problem.

    1. sewfar | | #4

      Thank you so much for your reference to the site sewingforlife. I would never have found it without you and it is wonderful.

      Edited 4/13/2009 6:39 pm ET by sewfar

  3. soie | | #5

    For the waistband, maybe you could try facing just the front, and only using elastic for the back? 

    I'm also picturing an added detail that might help your fit, I don't know. 

    Using the same idea of facing the front and elastic in the back, a couple of belt loops might be added on the front, with self fabric 'belt' pieces attached at the side seams and closing at the center front with a belt buckle, to cinch the waist in a little. 

    I've never tried this myself, the image just flashed in my mind while considering this. 

    I'm always trying on different pants in the shops to see if there's a good fit that I can copy, since every designer does pants a little different.

  4. User avater
    stitchhappy | | #6

    I suggest you draft a pant pattern from scratch. It is not hard to do and once you get it done you can also compare other patterns to it. All that's involved is drawing a line, and a couple other lines perpendicular to it and measuring a few points and connecting them--so much easier than guessing your way around a commercial pattern. Threads has had several articles on pants drafting with the directions. I'll bet you can find them online.

    jn at Threads

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