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Making a flared skirt

learn2sew | Posted in General Discussion on

I am making  a full flared skirt (Mccalls 4875 ) I know I know how to do this, but I thought I would ask. The material that I have has a horizontal pattern and the pattern piece is asking that the skirt be cut on a fold or on single selvage. How can I lay the pattern on the material and keep the horizontal pattern going across the skirt.




  1. raven2run | | #1

    I'm having a hard time undertanding your problem. If the horizontal pattern does not go from selvege to selvege, you can't lay the cloth on the fold and have it running in the right direction obviously. There's no way around that, because if you ignore the straight of your fabric in order to get your horizontal, your skirt is not going to fit or hang well. If it does run right, you just have to match up your horizontal design at the hip and watch to keep it matched up as best you can at least til you get to the flare.

    Hope this helps.

  2. mainestitcher | | #2

    I can't see a way to do that. The stripes will curve higher toward the center front and back, and lower toward the sides (like the pink skirt illustrated on the pattern).

  3. mem | | #3

    The only way you can do this is to piece the fabric so that you can cut it on the fold . You will have to match the horizontal pattern and the sew it together and then cut out you pattern Make sure that when you do this that the piecing happens on the same side on the back and front.  Sewing the piecing together with a walking foot will help with keeping the match perfect Indeed i would sew it all with a walking foot

  4. Teaf5 | | #4

    The only way you could end up with a continuously straight horizontal (or vertical) stripe is by making a completely straight skirt with a gathered waist. Essentially, you make a tube, and the gathers or drawstring waist holds it in place. Even then, the waistline won't fall exactly straight on the horizontal; it will have to rise at the sides and dip in the back.

    However, on a flared skirt, the stripes will meet at the side seams in a chevron pattern, which is often very nice. Depending on the direction you lay out the pieces (use the With Nap layout!) this chevron will point up or point down. The chevron-up pattern down the side seam is very flattering, while a completely horizontal stripe all the way around the skirt (as possible in the straight skirt) is rarely flattering on anyone.

    To make the stripes match exactly at the side seam, you should cut out the front or back first, then lay it next to the remaining pattern piece on the fabric, sliding the pattern up and down until you can line up the stripes at the side at the stitching line (5/8" in from the cutting line).

    On a very distinctive stripe, it's important to line up the outer edges; on a more random or less definite stripe, it's nice but not as essential. Just remember that the fabric has to match at the stitching line, which is 5/8" in from the cutting line!

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