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Making Welt pockets!

TracyA | Posted in General Discussion on

Does anyone have anxiety over making welt pockets or is it just me.  I always have fear that after making major adjustments to my jacket pattern and making the fronts, I’ll ruin it by making the pockets.  What is the easiest way to construct them.


  1. GailAnn | | #1

    I sympathize with you.  Making that first cut through the fashion fabric is terrifying!  Gail

  2. mede8 | | #2

    I used to have the same problem, until I made several samples, which helped me to gain confidence.  Thankfully, it's no longer a problem because I love the look and actually enjoying making them.  I particularly like using ultra suede on denim on the back pockets of jeans as well as using it as trim for other fabrics.  It's a great look.

    Now then, Threads has several terrific articles re making welt pockets, and here is one of my personal favorites.  I hope it helps you. 

    Here's the link:  http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/tvt031.asp

    You can also do a search on Threads website and get a list of quite a few other articles.  Without a doubt, each one has great tips that are very helpful.  Good luck, and enjoy the journey.

    1. TracyA | | #3

      Thank you,

      This article was of great help.  Although I am not new to sewing, there are just some fears that stick with you forever.  I've made seveal welts that came out perfect and some that the project went right into the trash.  I'll keep at it and one day I know I'll be able to do this without thinking. 


  3. Pattiann42 | | #4

    The Spring 2008 (current) issue of Sew Stylish magazine has a feature on welt pockets using organza.  The idea being that the organza helps control the pocket shape. 

    Relax.  I found than when I am making samples I am more relaxed and the samples turn out great.   

    1. TracyA | | #5


      I'll pick this issue up on my next fabric run. 

  4. Elaray | | #6

    Welt pockets are not the easiest sewing technique. Pants for Real People(Palmer & Alto) and Sew Any Set-In Pocket (Shaeffer) have clear directions on how to make them. Follow each step and don't look for shortcuts. I recommend practice, practice and more practice.

  5. kariewill | | #7

    I struggled with the jets on the welt pocket for ages, until someone showed me the organza patch method - don't know if this is the method in sew stylish as I haven't seen the article.sew organza to right side of fabric on the pocket opening box.
    cut it and turn the patch to the wrong sideAttach jets/piping/flaps/pocket bag etc to the pocket edgings that you turned out. (before machining, slip stitch jets/welts together so that they don't part at the centre and hand stitch the jets/welts into place from the right side of the fabric, through the pocket opening stitching line). This is done using the correct vertical orientation from the back of the pocket, so that you can SEE WHAT YOU"RE DOING! At the end of the threads video, the pocket bag is attached like thisI find this works even when you don't have piping to give you a distance guide for positioning in the traditional method.Good luck,Karen

    1. KathleenFasanella | | #8

      This tutorial has been voted best on the web repeatedly:
      http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/welt_pocket_construction.htmlNever fear welt pockets again. Even someone (my DH) who doesn't know how to sew and hasn't even ever used a sewing machine, got a perfect result on his first try. The proof of that is here:
      http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/training_green_sewing_operators.htmlThis is what he says about the welt pocket tutorial
      (http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/comments_from_the_sewing_trainee.html)"Welt pockets: That's it?! I thought these would require extra special care, but they were surprisingly simple. I especially don't understand why an experienced stitcher or home-sewer would be intimidated by the process once I had seen how the template thing works. The drafting is simple, sewing parallel lines is simple, so where is the hard part? I kept expecting some big step and then, all of a sudden, you flip it over and it's done. That's it?! Simple doesn't really describe it. It's almost stupid. It was a big let-down compared to the build-up, like the end of a Steven King story."

      1. sewslow67 | | #10

        Terrific web links, Kathleen;  thanks so much for sharing them.  I can't believe all the good information on the Internet ...and everyone keeps sharing more.  It's great!  I checked out several of her other topics too, and found them very interesting and helpful.

        Thanks again.

  6. Cherlyn | | #9

    I love welt pockets and at one time was very good at this since I made most of my suits for work.  The last time I made a suit jacket with welt pockets was the a disaster!  I took my seam ripper to open it and ripped right through the front of the jacket!  I tried to repair it creatively, but I knew that it was there.  They do take time and lots of patience.  Good luck! 

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