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McCall 4385

solosmocker | Posted in Photo Gallery on

Here is a jean jacket I just finished. I used a Tracy Porter home dec fabric with kind of a retro print. This is a Sew News pattern, pretty straitforward, with no big issues of fit or construction.

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  1. MaryinColorado | | #1

    Love the fabric and your work.  I also have that same pattern, I bought it through the magazine.  Maybe now I'll actually cut it out and make one!  I normally wear a size 10 or 12 but according to the measurements would need a 16, what do you think?  (I have small shoulders and bone structure, gave away my mannequin then lost weight!) 

    I had given up on sewing for myself due to fitting issues but am ready to jump back in.  Is there much ease in this jacket or is it quite fitted?  I will probably do view C with embroidery. 

    It looks great on you.  Thanks for the inspiration!!!  Mary

    1. solosmocker | | #3

      Mary, I am sure you will have no problem fitting this pattern. I used the size 8 which had a 40 inch flat pattern measurement for the bust. The sleeves are also cut quite deep, like a mans jean jacket, so there is a lot of fudge room here. I am only 5 feet tall, so I did the full petite adjustment on the bodice length and sleeve length, plus an additional half inch in both cases. In the pic I have the cuffs folded back. Also due to the petite issue I cut down by 1/4 inch the width on the collar, meaning the outside edge only, not the other three edges. I also cut down the pocket flaps by a 1/4 inch all the way around. There are no darts or fitting here other than length and width so I think anyone could easily handle this as far as fit. Mary, I have very narrow shoulders also. Give it a try.

      1. MaryinColorado | | #4

        Thanks so much for this information!  The collar and other suggestions will be great.  I hope to start it soon.  I am also petite, but "fluffy" in the center and under 5ft. tall.  Tomorrow is my pinweaving class, dgd is going along.  Mary

        1. solosmocker | | #5

          That sounds like great fun. I am sure you will have a wonderful time especially with DD being there. I hope we get a full report!

          1. MaryinColorado | | #6

            I'll start a new thread on it when I rest awhile.  It was fun!

            It might be fun to use the pinwoven fabric for the yokes or other part of the jean jacket.  Mary

            Edited 6/28/2007 7:26 pm by MaryinColorado

    2. cat42 | | #7

      Regarding size of pattern for the jeans Jacket:Bear in mind that pattern sizing is not the same as ready-to-wear sizing. It's quite possible to wear a RTW size 12 and a pattern size 16. However, try this:
      Measure your high bust (position tape high up under your underarms and above the bust). Then measure your full bust (over the apex of the bust). If the full bust is 2 inches larger than your high bust, then buy the size that corresponds to your high bust measurement, as it will give you better fit for your narrow shoulders and chest. If 2 inches or less, buy the size that corresponds to your full bust measurement.For example: if your high bust is 34 and your full bust is 36, this difference is just 2 inches, so use the pattern size 14 (bust 36). If your high bust is 34 and your full bust is 38, the difference is 4", so use the pattern size 12 (bust 34). However, you need to add 2 more inches in the full bust area; this requires a bust enlargement to the pattern.The bust enlargement will create a bust dart which you can handle in a couple ways on your jean jacket:
      1. leave it as a bust dart
      2. Lower the front yoke seam to 1" above your bust apex and move the dart to this seam
      3. Most Jean jacket patterns have 2 pieces for the lower front, with a seam over the bust area. Move the dart to this seam. This is the method I recommend, as most jean jackets have this seam anyway. If it doesn't, you can easily add it. This will give the best fit.You should not need to adjust the sleeve. Just use your high-bust size.If you don't know how to do a bust enlargement, there are Threads fitting articles that have described this. Sandra Betzina also has a method in her fitting book. But my favorite resource for this and other pattern fitting issues, is "Fit For Real People" by Patti Palmer and Marta Alto.Another way you can do this if you don't want to get into the bust enlargement thing, is to select a pattern that includes both your size by high-bust measurement and by full-bust measurement. Then follow the size for your high-bust for the shoulder and upper armhole (from shoulder down to the match dot above the notches). Follow the size for your full-bust on the side seams and lower armhole (from side seam to the notches). Then use a french curve to connect and true the armhole between the notches and the match dot.[If your pattern doesn't have a match dot in the armhole, use a point about halfway between shoulder and notch. The match dot is typically where the sleeve cap curve changes from concave (underarm) to convex (over the shoulder).]Then you will also need to modify the sleeve cap. Basically follow the cutting line for your high-bust size between the match dots, and the line for the full-bust size below the notches, and use the french curve to connect between these. Best to try this with a muslin first, as fitting the sleeve to the adjusted armhole can be tricky. For this reason, I prefer to do the bust enlargement method, as in the end, it is less trouble.Also, the multi-size method is not as good as doing the bust enlargement because it does not alter the armhole curve as well.Jean Jackets are fun, so I hope you try this!

      1. MaryinColorado | | #8

        Thanks for the great info and for the encouragement!  I hope to make it as soon as I finish the pinweaving vest class Thursday.  Hope I'm ready for class 2, I have to go buy another piece of black fabric today for the other front piece.

  2. jatman | | #2

    Very cute!  I didn't realize Sew News had patterns.  Really like the fabric for that style - makes me remember a white jean jacket I had a looooonnng time ago.  Great job!

    JT

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