Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok Icon YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon

Conversational Threads

mens-alterations-jackets

Joan_Fitzhugh | Posted in The Archives on

*
I told a friend I would fix his jacket, how do you lower the collar on a jacket? it’s just between the shoulder seams. I have done almost every alteration but this one.

Replies

  1. Debbie_Michels | | #1

    *
    Hi Joan,
    I am suprised that you have not had a response
    before now.
    I have done this alteration many, many times. It can be done beautifully if you pay attention to the original makers preferance of construction, since a collar can be done several ways. What you are doing in this alteration is actually recutting the top of the coat at the neck ,,,be mindful of the amount that needs to be adjusted. If you are lowering only 1/4" then you will only be opening the seam on the upper and lower collar from shoulder to shoulder. If you are adjusting MORE THAN 3/8", you will need to also adjust the shoulder seam so that the slope will be less than original. I make a pattern off the coat back, and slide it down (staying the pattern on the center-back seam) and chalk the new neckline. If your adjustment is more than 3/8" you will note that the shoulder line has also changed. This is the slope adjustment. Chalk this also and when you make the shoulder slope adjustment, divide the difference between the chalk line parallel to the shoulder seam and the shoulder seam itself by 1/2. This will be the amount of the adjustment to the shoulder at the neck line and will taper to the original seam line at the sleeve head. You don't have to worry about sleeves...you won't go that far. Simply mark and measure, then lift the upper and lower collar from just front of the shoulder seams , adjust shoulder seams, press well and carefully , recut your neckline coat and lining, and reconstruct as original.

    A wonderful book to have on your shelf is Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide For Mens Wear by Roberto Cabrera. The same author has the "sister" or companion book by the same name for Womens wear.
    I am sorry that I don't know how comfortable you are with mens coats, and I hope that I didn't loose you. The books I mention are avalible in most librarys as they are not new.
    I wish you well in your endevors.

    1. Joan_Fitzhugh | | #2

      *Debbie,Thank you, I was hoping I would get a response before I started the alteration, I have been thinking about this and you confirmed my process. When it comes to mens jackets, I'm very comfortable with shortening the sleeves because I have done so many. I haven't had anyone else ever need this done, but I know it's common. Thanks for the book reference.

This post is archived.

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Conversational Threads

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Highlights