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Moving bust point

rekha | Posted in Fitting on

I am trying to cut the pattern for a Butterick 3978 jacket eventually to be transferred to Ventile fabric, but I have problems. The armholes are too tight on the pattern which I can accomodate by lengthening the top third of front, back and sleeve, BUT that will drop the bust point, already lower in the pattern, further by lengthening the top. What shall I do?

Replies

  1. mem1 | | #1

    Couldnt you just lower the arm hole and extend the sleeve a little?

    1. rekha | | #2

      Good thinking! The jacket has princess seams; how do I lower the armhole neatly over the two pieces?

      1. mem1 | | #3

        I think i would just do it to the lower of the two jacket pieces of the front because if you did it to both you might alter the relationship between the sleeve and the armscye . i am not sure that would be a good idea.

        1. rekha | | #4

          Thanks! I was actually thinking of doing both front and back because I need to increase the biceps. I would like suggestions in the light of my additional requirements.

          1. mem1 | | #5

            well increasing the biceps can be a bit tricky if you want to increase it alot . Again get a fitting book as it sounds like it would help you . If you just widen the sleeve at the side you will add more ease into the top of the sleeve and this could change the look of your sleeve alot. So you need to add fabric in at the biceps but not in the sleeve cap this requires slashing and spreading the midlle ofthe sleeve by cutting in at the underarm seam and through the middle of the sleeve .The Palmer Pletch book is very good and you will be able to deal with anything!

          2. FitnessNut | | #6

            Another book you may wish to have a look at is "The Busy Woman's Fitting Book" by Nancy Zieman. She has a very easy to do alteration of the biceps line, which doesn't add to the sleeve cap. I used it successfully this past summer on a bridal gown when I was at a total loss as to how to make the alteration.....and at my wit's end. You may find the answer to some of your other questions there as well. It isn't a new book, so the best place to find it may be your local library.

          3. rekha | | #7

            Thanks, Sandy and mem. I used Sally McCann's L-shaped method of increasing the biceps, but I think I may have gone overboard with lowering the armhole. I am constructing a muslin and will report back on how your suggestions worked.

          4. rekha | | #8

            p.s. Sarah Veblen suggested Fitting and Pattern Alterations by Elizabeth Leichty et al. Has anyone read this book and how does it compare with Nancy's. I would like to buy one of them, can't afford both.

          5. FitnessNut | | #9

            I've never seen Sally McCann's book, so am not sure of the adjustment you are making. The Leichty et al. book is good, but the instructions can be confusing. When I have pattern alterations to make that I'm not sure about, I generally pull out every reference book I have, go through them all and then come up with a solution. The Singer fitting book is also excellent, IMHO. If possible, have a look through any books you are considering to see if you think they will address the fitting issues you have to deal with. There is nothing more frustrating than searching through your fitting book to find that you can't get any help from it.

          6. rekha | | #10

            >> is nothing more frustrating than searching through your fitting book to find that you can't get any help from it.>>

            Couldn't agree with you more. I attach the scanned page from L-slash method from Every Sewer's Guide to the Perfect Fit: Customizing Your Patterns for a Sensational Lookby Mary Morris, Sally McCann

            My first muslin has turned out well thanks to the generous help I was offered on this forum. The only alteration I have had to make is the lowering of the sleeve cap. I am a happy woman. 

             

          7. FitnessNut | | #11

            Bravo...well done!Unfortunately, I can't see an attachment to your post, just the link to the book on Amazon. This book sounds very interesting.

          8. rekha | | #12

            Oops, I can but try again. It is just about clear enough to decipher details

          9. FitnessNut | | #13

            Thanks....I can see the drawings. It looks very much like the method outlined in the Singer book, The Perfect Fit. Also in Patternmaking for Fashion Design - the old edition has a fitting section, which I understand has been added back to the newest version, published recently.

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