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Need help fitting a bra

foxfyreutk | Posted in Fitting on

I was asked to create a bra that fit and felt comfortable for a woman who had breast augmentation. She was very specific that there be NO underwires and also showed me that the augmentation creates a gap between her breasts that make an off-the-shelf bra curl under in the center (between the cups). She tells me she has tried EVERYTHING on the market from $5 to $50 and nothing fits right.

I remembered the article posted on Threads website, but it has underwires. I find the details provided for creating and fitting the bra wonderful, but no point in starting if I can’t use it because of the underwires.

Any comments? Are the underwires optional, maybe? Any other suggestions on where to find detailed fitting and construction for a bra sans underwires?

I see a huge market for this if I can “nail” the first one! My customer is a nurse & I think she knows everyone in town who’s had the surgery (and says everyone she’s talked to has same complaint).

Thanks! Marlene


  1. FitnessNut | | #1

    Try http://www.bramakers.com for patterns. Their listing of full-band bra patterns states that they can be made without underwires even if the pattern calls for them. I've taken a class with Beverly and I recall this from the class, although I didn't make that style myself. You may also want to check out her class notes, which I believe you can buy for minimal charge. She has taught dozens of Canadian women the ins and outs of bramaking and has set many on the route to a business in this area.

    Good luck!

    1. foxfyreutk | | #3

      Thanks for all the input and website. I do wish we could entice Beverly to come to East Tennessee! Marlene

    2. foxfyreutk | | #4

      I spent a lot of time on the website and was AMAZED!! This is a whole new world for me! Anyone out there doing this? I was wondering what the prices were? I would think the first one of any pattern for each client would be quite a bit more than any ones made after that. Due to time for fittings, mostly. After that, if the client wants one, just pull out HER pattern and make it. So ... anyone doing this and want to share their pricing sturcture. I DO understand that choice of materials also would make a difference. Thanks, Marlene

      1. FitnessNut | | #5

        I'm glad you found the website helpful. As I said, I took a class with Beverly and she is simply amazing! I learned SO much, but I haven't been making bras for others. Here in Edmonton, one of Beverly's students has a custom bra-making business (she also teaches). Her website is http://www.freespiritbras.ca and you may wish to check it out or email her to ask about her pricing, though she does have a bit of info on the site. You are correct in assuming that the first bra would be the most expensive, what with the fittings involved, and that the choice of fabric would influence the final price. Don't forget that if you pursue this route, you should be buying your fabric and notions wholesale....companies such as Bramakers do deal in lower volume for small, home-based businesses, so it is a realistic option.

        1. foxfyreutk | | #6

          This is a very exciting area of custom sewing I never even considered! Yes, I do have my business license and tax cert. No problem there. I had a quilt shop before my car accident. Can't run a shop and do therapy at same time! <grin> So ... I've been making and selling a lot of wearable art (beaded/fringed ponchos, bags, etc). I wouldn't mind the time to learn the lingere business, or even the investment in patterns, fabric, notions, etc IF there was a payoff. I just love sewing and learning new techniques. Am a passionate quilter, but that's a hobby ... just no money in selling them. Have a degree in communications, worked for many, many years as a tech writer and still freelance quilt articles, etc. but prefer to stay at home ... and sew ... and make a living (if I can!) w/FABRIC!! Thanks for all your help. Whether the bra-making works out or not, it will be fun pursuing the info. Marlene

          1. HeartFire | | #7

            I read an article about a guy who started up ####bra business for the C cup and up - he came from a family of very well endowed women and remembers the trouble they had getting bras, sells sexy, lacy, colored bras in large sizes, his business is thriving in Israel where he started it and is now expanding to NY! - Go for it -

          2. FitnessNut | | #8

            I second what Judy said.....GO FOR IT!!!!! Good luck and best wishes. You're going to have a blast!

  2. stitchmd | | #2

    I've made bras that are shaped as if they have underwires, but just have a few extra layers of fabric sewn down to reinforce the cup shaping on the bottom. You make some 1" strips, fold them lengthwise, sew the raw edges in to the seam along with the cup when joining cup and frame. Then fold the folded edge down and top stitch or stitch in the ditch, or hand slip stitch into place to cover the seam. It gives a nice clean finish and some definition.

    Another way to add support is to make the lower cup sections out of double layered fabric. My understanding is surgically enhanced girls are firmer than the natural ones and need less support and shaping.

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