Need help in getting the bust point r…
Judy_Beaton | Posted in The Archives on
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I bought some luscious rayon fabric and have decided to make a top (straight-cut) with a bias-cut skirt. The pattern is simple and for that reason needs to be fitted perfectly. I made a muslin for the top and found it to be fine except for the bust point. The end of the dart ends up a good 2″ higher than my bust point. (And yes, I was wearing a good bra at the time). Can I just pivot that point down the correct distance, or are there other things to take into consideration?
Also I have to wear this outfit next Saturday. I’ll make the skirt first thing tomorrow and hang it. If I hem it say, Friday night will that be enough time for the bias to hang out?
Replies
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Just cut the entire bust dart box (draw a rectangular box around the whole bust dart) and move it down 2" to where you need it. You can do this in your muslin by releasing the original dart, redrawing the dart 2" lower, and then repinning it or restitching it. BTW, the dart positions are created for the 18-yr-olds, obviously. As you get on in years (& thus better....ha!), the bust lowers. Know the feeling.....? RE: the bias-cut skirt, check out Marcy Tilton's article in Threads for tips on sewing bias anything. I remember that she said to make your seam allowances wider.... say 1.5" instead of the regular 5/8. Also, really stretch those vertical seams as you sew, & that'll help alleviate most of the bias hang issues before you finally hem. Search here in Threads for that article. Happy sewing on what's sure to be a great outfit! Darlette
*Thank you Darlette,Yes, you are right. I did think that the placementof the bust dart was for the "perky" 18 year old.I will use your suggestion for repositioning.As far as the skirt goes, it will have been hanging 3 days. Should be fine. Thanks again.
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