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need help w/ armscye and sleeve

Robin_Feiner | Posted in Fitting on

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Hi,

I am a beginning sewer trying to alter a Kwik Sew multi-size T-shirt pattern. I have a 4″ difference between my bust and high bust w/ narrow width shoulders. I have used a french curve to create a new armscye from the M shoulder to the XL side seam. What I am stumped on, is how to determine the appropriate amount of increased width across the sleeve above the side seam and narrowing the sleeve below the side seam point.
Would I create a new curve going from the XL shoulder pt to the M side seam pt? I am on the right track regarding the armscye?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Robin

Replies

  1. Bill_Stewart | | #1

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    Robin, if you blended from a M shoulder to an XL underarm, do the same on the sleeve - blend the curve from the M top of shoulder to the XL underarm seam on sleeve. Take the precaution of measuring the seamline on the pattern F & B and on the sleeve F & B to see if you have kept the same amount of ease as on one of the original sets of seamlines. If sleeve seamline is close to being accurate, but a little short, you can fudge out on the underam up to 1/4" but not much more - curves will get out of whack. Try making a copy of you patterns to experiment with before messing up the original or good material. Let me know how you do. Bill

    1. Robin_Feiner | | #2

      *Hi Bill,I have seen David Coffin's video but had only very lightly skimmed the book. I finally really looked at it and found he has info on 'engineering' that area. ?'s I am still pondering: if I use the M shoulder to XL underarm seam as a new line, I wind up w/ 4" of ease, and I would rather reduce that to about 2". So that's why I thought of XL shldr. to M ua.s. which would pretty much keep the same lengths that you're speaking of, but would angle the sleeve much closer to the body. Which means that the bodice portion would rise if I lift my arms much. Should I straighten the curve of the armsyce and the sleeve cap somewhat(so the sleeve would angle away from the body more), and live w/ some excess material in the underarm area? This will be the problem I am going to have w/ any jacket or blouse/shirt in the future, so I am trying to get a handle on how to look at this. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.Robin Feiner

      1. Bill_Stewart | | #3

        *In a Tshirt it is definitely better to angle the sleeve out a bit for the freedom you need - the offset is just what you discovered. the closer the sleeve the more it rides up the bodice, and the more angled the more underarm fullness. you'll just need to use scrap material to find the balance of the 2 that suits you best. the reason you are getting into this is the no dart bodice of a Tshirt. for everything there is always a trade off. test in dummy fabric. I really think you need some hands on help there with you - a sewing teacher or sewing buddy to help you with this. ask at you fabric store. they can often suggest someone to help out.

        1. Debbie_Michels | | #4

          *Robin, I have been reading with interest the situation you and Bill have been working on. Do you know of a friendly tailor or sewing professional (as Bill suggested) that can drape on you? If you work on a cloth that in the same (ie; knit) and that is the same weight as the more costly cloth (I presume), you can draft by draping a sleeve that you may find satisfy you. There is nothing better than a form to work on, and the best form is the body for whom the garment is being made for. Muslin is used constantly for pattern fitting when a fine wool will be used for the finished garment. You have mentioned David Coffin, and although I have seen countless custom-made shirts, none look as nice on as those pictured in his book or articles in Threads. As you have studied his working style, you have learned how he uses draping. I hope you are very successful in your venture.Debbie

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